How to paint the wooden Polar Bear?
I had some ideas, but handily, sides are provided for both locomotives on the line, so I could use the Seal Lion one as a test piece. Painting wood can be "interesting" so a practice run seemed wise.
One question in my mind was whether a coat of sanding sealer would fill the etched lines and hide them under the cream coat. With this in mind, I only sealed the right-hand side of the piece here.
Both sides were painted with Humbrol cream enamel and if I'm honest there wasn't much difference between the sealed and unsealed results. A light same and more cream. The good news was, all the lines were still visible.
My stocks of maroon enamel are out and I'm pretty sure the government wouldn't consider a trip to buy more essential, even if the shop was open. Mail order might work, but I was impatient for progress, so tried some cheap acrylic.
Two coats were required, but the results look good. Each to apply accurately and a nice not-quite-matt finish. Time to move on to the model.
I like the idea of using spare kit parts / offcuts for paint testing and other "proof of concept" stuff.
ReplyDeleteAs for the paints, I must admit that, over the years, I've found that cream colour to be one of Humbrol's more useful ones.
The same goes for their very pale concrete colour and anything dark grey / "not quite black" - all of these colours come in very useful for model interiors and also as basecoats.
Of course, this also reminds me that my model stash includes some old Lima and Hornby multiple units - which could do with new windows, followed by painting and lighting their interiors. I think I might have to use some of these for skill building - and not worry too much about whether they're UK or foreign outline.
OK - I've got some spare cars from a Lima DB ET403 set. I know it's German outline - but, if I were to add 1 figure to the interior of a coach, this would probably be OK for the"social isolation" modelling challenge on RMweb. Whether anybody other than myself would actually be interested is a different matter entirely ... .
Anyway, returning to the paints, I've experimented with art / craft acrylics in the past - with mixed results.
I've often found that they seem to benefit from being put over a matt, solvent based basecoat - and some makes / types of acrylic paint seem to have better coverage than others. For example, I've usually found Liquitex concentrated colour to be OK (not sure what it's called these days).
I can't comment about the paint you used (never tried that make) - but I might have to experiment with one of those basic colour sets when they next appear in my local Lidl.
Well, it's either that or experimenting with decorating paint tester pots from Wilko or B&M - they'd probably work on wood - I'm not sure about plastic.
For "not quite black", try the Revell range. There are a couple there that fit that description.
ReplyDeleteWhen I did the 7/8ths version for a customer I used Humbrol 41 Ivory and Humbrol 220 Virgin red I think, and they looked spot on to my untrained (in terms of this particular prototype) eye comparing with photos... however I tend to buy online anyway with Humbrol, direct, as there is no such thing as a local model shop for me!
ReplyDeleteRe Huw’s comment about Liquitex concentrated (Medium Viscosity) acrylic paint, yes, it was useful stuff and for some reason Liquitex stopped selling it in favour of “Heavy Body” artist acrylic paint in tubes. However, it has since been re-introduced as “Soft Body” artist acrylic paint in a different plastic bottle with a nozzle — at about twice the price!
ReplyDeleteChristopher - Thanks for the heads-up about the Liquitex.
ReplyDeleteWhen / if things return to normal, I'll have to keep an eye open for the stuff.