Just as I found with etched brass to plywood, UHU Power works very well. I've always been wary of using solvent-based glue under plastic but this stuff can be spread thinly, left for a couple of minutes to go tacky and then the sheet applied. So far, there have been no ill effects.
You'll have noticed that the bricks are dry-brush painted rather than pencil crayoned. I find this works better here as you can get in the sides around the windows and doors. As I found out when building Harper's Yard, you can't put Plastikard here, it's too thick. So paint it is.
On the roof, I've used some ScaleModelScenery slates. Draw lines 5mm apart on the roof to allow for the overlap and they are easy to line up. You are on your own staggering the joins, but it's not that hard.
3 comments:
Why are the cross plates positioned where they are? The tie rods that would be connected to them will be above floor level and of reduced effect so close to the side walls.
Christopher Payne
Have you had any problems with buildings warping when gluing embossed plastikard to MDF ? I've certainlly experienced it with all-plastikard construction or brick paper to plastikard. One approach is to try to "balance" by sticking an equivalent weight on the back face.... Or maybe the MDF is thick and rigid enough for it not to matter ?
Great blog, a modelling ray of sunshine !!
Steve - I had no problem over 25 years doing this with plastic to card. The MDF is very strong though, so I wouldn't expect any issue.
Christopher - Because I followed the photo on the kit. Perhaps this explains why I shouldn't follow instructions!
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