Considering I bought this at Easter, completing the job by the end of June is some sort of record.
I'm very pleased with the result. A bit of learning along the way, but it wasn't difficult project.
One question remains - how heavy should it be? G1MRA don't have any specific recomendations, so I've only tacked the roof in place so I can add weight if required in the future.
All that was left was to shorten the box, and it can go into the G1 stock store for a future running session.
Nearly there. A quick clean up of the buffers shanks and they bolt stright in with the accompanying spring. It's a few minutes very satisfying work.
The couplings though. The theory is simple, but the nut doesn't quite fit between the chassis strengtheners. And if it doesn't fit, you can't do it up.
So, there was a fair bit of carving away to make this work, but eventually I managed to get some clearance so it could be done up to the end of the thread in the hook casting. I considered a few bodges, but in G1, the hook really should be sprung. It might look pretty, but you can't see when the van is on its feet.
Actually, I seem to remember the same issue on the O gauge version. I should have learned.
After all the spraying, including a coat of varnish to seal in the transfers, the wheels were pretty filthy. Time for cleanup, which turned out to be easier than expected.
Step one: Using a cotton bug, wipe nail varnish remover on the treads and flanges. This removes a lot of muck, but dries super-fast leaving a smear.
Step two: Polish the smear away with a fibreglass pencil. I was pleasently surprised how fast the metal shone through.
Nice for something to go well, although I don't like the smell much!
I love the smell of meths, so when the transfers in the G1 kit turned out to be methfix ones, I was happy. Not least because this means no carrier film, so they can be applied to a matt surface without silvering.
In theory, application is simple, cut light around the letter or number, and peel the top surface with the print away from the backing. Using a sharp blade, this is easier than you might think.
The transfer is put in place and wetted with a 3:1 mix of meths and water. A bit of proding, to ensure it's in the right place, and flat. Leave for 15 minutes, and then wash the carrier paper away with water.
And to be fair, that's how it worked. OK, there was the ususual pain lining up the numbers (hint, turn the model upside down, the different angle makes errors stand out) but otherwise, they seem to stick fine. A worry with a second-hand kit is that the transfers will have dried out and need rejuvination or replacement.
Left overnight to fully dry, I cleaned up any leftover purple marks (the colour is s dye added to the meths so we can see it) with a damp cotton bud, and a finishing spray of matt varnish.
All the ironwork under the solebar, but not on the solebar it seems, is black. A couple of hours poking a small brush around, loaded with Revell 9 (Anthracite) has sorted this.
All that is left to do is remove the paint from the whee trads and flanges, and it will be time for transfers. I'm getting there!
Under the door is an etched runner. These are handed as the holes should match up with the spigots on the plastic bodyside. Not a problem, but a little trap for the unwary.
I seriously thought about leaving the back-to-front brake gear. Firmly fixed in place, I wasn't sure I could remove it without damage. And would anyone notice?
Eventually I decided that I would notice. It would always bug me. And now was the time to do something, before any painting.
So, every joint was treated to a big blob of Zap debonder. This stuff is mainly for unsticking skin, but it couldn't do any harm.
After 15 minutes, I started waggling pins and trying to slide a knife between flat metal joints. It's took a little while, but eventually I managed to pull it all apart without any damage. Superglue joints on non-porus surfaces aren't that strong, and can often be persuaded to seperate cleanly.
After that, everything was cleaned up and re-assembled the right way round. Every part was re-used, and it now looks right. I'm glad I didn't settle.
The van kit came without instructions, but fortunatly, they can be downloaded from the Slater's website. Handy, because without them, I'm pretty sure I'd have assembled the brake gear incorrectly.
I'm used to the idea that half-etched lines mean fold, but the size of G1 bits mean that items like the push rods which would, in 4mm scale, be a single plastic moulding, are a bit more detailed. Specifically, the double push rods have a gap between them. I'm sure they don't on the standard kit, although I'm also sure that finescale fans will have an etch to do this.
Joints are brass pins, the kit includes some very fine bolts, but I've rescued these for use elsewhere. The pins look fine, and are superglued in anyway. In fact, the who construction owes a lot to superglue, a bit of a surprise, but it works.
Some vans were only fitted with gear on one side, but since the previous owner fitted shows on both, and I don't like wasting parts, I'll repeat all of this on the other side.
Update: I've just fitted the brakes on the other side and realised these are back to front. Push the lever and the shoes move away from the wheels! I'm not sure how I'll fix this to be honest...
Examining the problem, I spotted that the freer axle was 58.5mm long, which the other measured 62. How?
The axle eneds didn't look that special either, some polishing required.
The long axle was reduced in length by 2mm using a fine file and then repolished. Still not entirely happy, a 3mm diameter bit was spun in the axlebox as best I could. Finishing with a countersink bit ensured there weren't any burrs.
If all this sounds crude, it is. Opening out the bearing would have been a lot easier if it wasn't fitted - my version doesn't allow for a nice squre opening out, but it works.
Soon, the long axle ran perfectly, but the short one mostly worked, but sometimes didn't. A 1mm long piece of copper stuffed in each axlebox removes most of the sideplay, and improves things a lot.
I suppose this is all part of the "fun" of buying a second hand kit. There is some satisfaction in solving the problems after all!
I've built this kit in 4mm several times, and always liked it, so why not try in the larger scale?
First impressions are good. The previous builder has done a good job. There were obviously some issues with the moving (sprung I think) axleboxes, but these have been resolved.
It all seems nice and square. In theory, this will be a quick project. The instructions (missing from my box) have been downloaded, so let's see.
