I had carried out a bit more work - the openings were all lined with plastic and I'd got as far as trying the windows. At this point I realsied that losing 1mm off each side made the pre-printed glazing look odd. On the PP stand, the model is covered with their brickpaper and the problem doesn't occur.
So, the lining was carefully removed despite all the effort I'd gone to to put it in neatly. Then the plastic started to peel from the front. Then it tore. Then I'm embarrassed to say, I had a bit of a meltdown and screwed the whole kit up and lobbed it in the bin.
But, I still like the model and with the bit more care, I think I can do a good job. So I ordered a replacement kit which has arrived and I'm back to making progress.
This time, the inside edges of the openings will just be painted. Some need to be a painted wood colour, others brick. While the lack of mortar lines might annoy me a little, once on a larger model, no-one is going to notice. At least I'm not going to tell them.
So, I'm going to learn from my mistakes. A slightly different tack to the build and no more modelling while stressed.
3 comments:
I suspect that some people might have found a slightly more "subtle" way of putting across today's theme:
"If, at first, you don't succeed, S** It!"
Well, it had to be said * ….
(* … or perhaps not, depending on your point of view.)
It is nice when someone makes a mistake before you do.I'm going to stick to using Scalescenes brick paper on my PP build for now.
A question though. When I scratch build I sort of work backwards from the brickwork, to avoid odd edges and corners where the bricks seem only an inch wide. How do you go about making up the brick panels to add to a kit like this? Do you only do it after you've built the structure?
Answers to this last question on Monday.
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