Look at these. Aren't they lovely. A couple of ready to use die-cast cars fresh from the model shop. Neither cost very much, certainly less than a whitemetal kit for the same vehicle would be.
Sadly, to me they represent another nail in the coffin of railway modelling. It's yet another part of the layout that the "modeller" doesn't have to build. No skill is required other than remembering your PIN.
I know I sound like a real curmudgeon writing this. And yes I remember being a beginner who hated hearing how easy it building a chassis from cast iron you make yourself etc. while I struggled to get a plastic wagon to run. And I know there will be a crowd of people crying, "But I don't have time to spend making and painting kits.".
But this is a craft based hobby. If you don't get to make anything, is there a point ?
For many people the essence of model railways is playing with the train set. Turning a knob and seeing a locomotive move. Do you need to build a model for this though ? There are plenty of computer based simulators that give you the same experience in a lot less space. You can have an infinite number of layouts as well without filling your house. The models will be perfect too and if they aren't then you can download an even better one or edit the one you have.
The rest of us like making things. There is a learning curve to this which is a good or bad thing depending on your point of view. Good if you want the satisfaction that comes with achievement. Bad when you simply can't make your hands do what you want. But when the ready to use items are better than anything even a reasonably competent modeller can produce, how surprising is it that the easy option is so appealing ? Why bother trying when you are bound to fail in the early days ?
I'm not saying that all good RTR is bad. I'm also not stupid enough to think the genie can go back in the bottle and we can return to the happy days of the 80's when there was acceptable RTR but still plenty you could do with it. That's gone and I wonder if this glut of goodies will be worse for us than we think.
If we don't make models does the hobby become a stereotype ? Outsides characterise model railways as grown men playing with toys. If they realise that most simply visit (in real life or virtually) a specialist toy shop and buy the bits we don't even have the excuse that there is skill involved in the creation of the scenes. I know I like to point out the carpentry, metalwork, electronics, painting etc. involved in my models. When you bought the lot what is left ? How long before you buy the whole layout off the shelf ?
Note: There is work to do on the cars. The ladder should be on a roof rack and the wheels are too wide on the Mini. Both need spraying with satin or matt varnish to make them look less toy-like.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Quality die-cast coffin nails
Red Beetle
Since I've never been any good at spraying gloss paint, the Beetle has been the perfect opportunity to practise. Normally the paint runs or doesn't stick properly. Then I get annoyed because I'm working on a model I care about so I put more paint on, which makes things worse...
Of course because this is a little model and I'm not worried about sticking it back in the paint stripper everything goes fine first time. The paint was let down with thinners as usual. I sprayed it and dried the paint with a hair drier immediately. The body was left overnight and was fully dry when reassembly time came around.
Putting the car back together was unsurprisingly easy. The worst problem was that the clear plastic had gone very brittle and broke. Superglue fixed this but it won't stand handling. I'm guessing that the plastic has been affected by the UV light.
All I need to do is make up some stickers for the doors and rally sign on the bumper and it will be nearly as good as new. Saved from the bin by me.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Resin crates
Having finally got the resin crates cast after earlier grief making the mold, I now have too many for the layout.
So, if you want a set, I've listed them on eBay. Go on, you know you want them !
So, if you want a set, I've listed them on eBay. Go on, you know you want them !
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Ruston brakes
With the brake shoes and hangers made up, all I had to do was pop some 0.7mm brass wire throught the chassis to hand everything on.
The holes needed a little reaming out because of the cust on the thick metal. Nothing much, just a couple of turns for a good snug fit.
After this a bit of threading of components and a few spots of solder hold everything together.
The holes needed a little reaming out because of the cust on the thick metal. Nothing much, just a couple of turns for a good snug fit.
After this a bit of threading of components and a few spots of solder hold everything together.
Friday, May 16, 2008
Lamp irons
On 4mm model locomotives I've always chosen to ignore the lamp irons as being too fiddly to bother with and likely to be damaged by handling. In gauge 1 I don't get this option as even I would miss them.
Happily those in the kit were easy to fold up and solder. You need to ignore the convention that half etch lines are always on the inside of the fold but this doesn't seem to be a problem. Running some solder around the edge makes everything solid and ready for the loco.
To attach them to the bufferbeam I used a resistance soldering unit - a tool I very rarely break out. This time it was just the job, working far better than a conventional iron for this task.
Happily those in the kit were easy to fold up and solder. You need to ignore the convention that half etch lines are always on the inside of the fold but this doesn't seem to be a problem. Running some solder around the edge makes everything solid and ready for the loco.
To attach them to the bufferbeam I used a resistance soldering unit - a tool I very rarely break out. This time it was just the job, working far better than a conventional iron for this task.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Sailing in the rain
This morning it wasn't raining. OK so there sky had filled with cloud but they hadn't started falling to earth.
So, knowing that a few other KMBC members would be sailing and having nothing better to do in the morning I headed out to the lake. It seemed like a good idea to test Splodger as this model boat had been packed up for the winter once completed and had never made a trip across our water.
Of course once I was at the lake and chatting the heavens opened. Rain did not stop play though and despite it we still enjoyed a laugh together. The boats will take a bit longer to dry out than normal though.
So, knowing that a few other KMBC members would be sailing and having nothing better to do in the morning I headed out to the lake. It seemed like a good idea to test Splodger as this model boat had been packed up for the winter once completed and had never made a trip across our water.
Of course once I was at the lake and chatting the heavens opened. Rain did not stop play though and despite it we still enjoyed a laugh together. The boats will take a bit longer to dry out than normal though.
Cabside handrails
I need to pay attention more often. There I was about to get on the phone to Trevor and point out a missing hole for a handrail knob on the cabsides. Then I took a proper look at the photos and realised that the real loco had a special, weird handrail support which held two handrails.
What's that about ? Do the designers of these locomotives not consider the problems of modelmakers ?
I suppose it does save the cost of two turned brass handrail knobs so someone benefits...
What's that about ? Do the designers of these locomotives not consider the problems of modelmakers ?
I suppose it does save the cost of two turned brass handrail knobs so someone benefits...
Ruston bonnet part 3
Now for the biggie - attaching the bonnet. There is a lot of metal here and I knew soldering would be challenging.
At the front a couple of slots take the tabs on the front for location. At the back a half etch line (that I'd previously ignored) shows there the back should go. That is a nice touch and works really well.
I tacked the front on by blobbing solder in the bottom of the tabs as they emerged from the footplate. Then did the same at the back and made sure everything was lined up.
Finally, out came the gas torch again and solder ran around the inside back and along the front below the fan. I was surprised how easy this was - that nickel really solders well. A quick blast of flame and I was blowing molten metal along the join.
At the front a couple of slots take the tabs on the front for location. At the back a half etch line (that I'd previously ignored) shows there the back should go. That is a nice touch and works really well.
I tacked the front on by blobbing solder in the bottom of the tabs as they emerged from the footplate. Then did the same at the back and made sure everything was lined up.
Finally, out came the gas torch again and solder ran around the inside back and along the front below the fan. I was surprised how easy this was - that nickel really solders well. A quick blast of flame and I was blowing molten metal along the join.
Ruston steps
Attaching the steps to the Ruston was interesting. For a start there is plenty of step to get hold off with the sprung tweezers so manipulation was easy. And as mentioned before, they are sturdy so you don't end up bending all the treads.
The front steps are no problem to locate - they go between the two handrail holes. The rear are a bit harder and they go on relative to the door. I used the fillet in the corner (lifting ring ?) as an aid 'cos the photos show they don't overlap these. As it was I got every step in the right place first time - I think that is a first for me.
I did need to use a gas torch for this task. The footplate is large and soaks up heat but the torch gave me nice quick, local solder melting and made the job easy. I can hear engineers repeating the mantra, "The right tool for the right job..."
The front steps are no problem to locate - they go between the two handrail holes. The rear are a bit harder and they go on relative to the door. I used the fillet in the corner (lifting ring ?) as an aid 'cos the photos show they don't overlap these. As it was I got every step in the right place first time - I think that is a first for me.
I did need to use a gas torch for this task. The footplate is large and soaks up heat but the torch gave me nice quick, local solder melting and made the job easy. I can hear engineers repeating the mantra, "The right tool for the right job..."
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
Top speed
Wiring a model boat seems to scare people silly but it's not that hard. Plug the speed control and servo into the receiver and wire the control to the motor. It didn't take me long and I even made a reasonably neat job.
The plan was to test the boat on the lake tomorrow but according to the weather forecaster on telly to do that we'll have to stand in the rain. So as the evening was nice a quick trip saw the boat afloat.
First problem is the superstructure won't sit down properly. My neat wiring was in the way at a couple of points. A but of a shove and it went on and wasn't going to fall off easily. I need to look at this.
That's the easy bit though. Once on the water I made a couple of slow turns just to test everything worked OK. Then I pushed the stick up for full speed.
And the progress was what might be politely termed "stately". Not in any way fast or exciting. I don't care what the sticker on the motor says, there is no way that prop is rotating at 6000rpm. It's not digging into the water much either.
A faster motor and four, or at least 3, blade prop are called for I think.
The plan was to test the boat on the lake tomorrow but according to the weather forecaster on telly to do that we'll have to stand in the rain. So as the evening was nice a quick trip saw the boat afloat.
First problem is the superstructure won't sit down properly. My neat wiring was in the way at a couple of points. A but of a shove and it went on and wasn't going to fall off easily. I need to look at this.
That's the easy bit though. Once on the water I made a couple of slow turns just to test everything worked OK. Then I pushed the stick up for full speed.
And the progress was what might be politely termed "stately". Not in any way fast or exciting. I don't care what the sticker on the motor says, there is no way that prop is rotating at 6000rpm. It's not digging into the water much either.
A faster motor and four, or at least 3, blade prop are called for I think.
Ruston bits
Time to make up some sub-assemblies for the Ruston.
First up the brakes. These are a central part with a etching on either side to represent the shoe. A light tin on the back of these, plenty of flux and some sprung tweezers acting as clamps had these assembled quickly and pretty cleanly. With bits this size lining up is easy and you have something to hold on to !
The steps are similar. The only difference from a 4mm kit is that the bend in the nickel tread takes more effort as the metal is thicker. I started the bend with little pliers and then popped them in a vice to finish the fold with a tiny hammer. If I'd used bigger pliers I'd have done it in one move.
This effort means that unlike the smaller scales the bits stay bent ! I hate it when you solder things up and then have to tweak them back to shape. This model will stand up to handling and the slightly rougher environment most G1 is likely to encounter.
Aside from the bend, assembly was easier than the small scale. You have something to grip and the nickel solders exceptionally well even to brass. I tinned the vertical on each step and just heated the joint when made and the solder flowed with no mess. Lovely - I think I could get to like this scale.
First up the brakes. These are a central part with a etching on either side to represent the shoe. A light tin on the back of these, plenty of flux and some sprung tweezers acting as clamps had these assembled quickly and pretty cleanly. With bits this size lining up is easy and you have something to hold on to !
The steps are similar. The only difference from a 4mm kit is that the bend in the nickel tread takes more effort as the metal is thicker. I started the bend with little pliers and then popped them in a vice to finish the fold with a tiny hammer. If I'd used bigger pliers I'd have done it in one move.
This effort means that unlike the smaller scales the bits stay bent ! I hate it when you solder things up and then have to tweak them back to shape. This model will stand up to handling and the slightly rougher environment most G1 is likely to encounter.
Aside from the bend, assembly was easier than the small scale. You have something to grip and the nickel solders exceptionally well even to brass. I tinned the vertical on each step and just heated the joint when made and the solder flowed with no mess. Lovely - I think I could get to like this scale.
Bits of Beetle
I do little jobs like this as experiments and because I feel stupidly sorry for the battered little car.
The experiment this time was with paint stripping. I've had success using brake fluid recently so I wondered how it would work on the sort of paint die-casts are covered with. In this case the answer is - none at all. A scrub with a pan scourer did the job though and removed most of the colour.
Then a shot of Halfords grey primer which dried think and lumpy. I wonder if they have added some filler to the mix to make it wore suitable for the domestic market ?
Another scrub and a shot of Eastwood etching primer did the trick. I'll know to stick with this on future important projects !
The glazing took a bit of cleaning up with Brasso but is now reasonably clear. The rest of the bits are fine. Since the chassis has lost it's chrome plating I've painted the visible bits silver. This isn't as good as chrome but brightens it up considerably.
The experiment this time was with paint stripping. I've had success using brake fluid recently so I wondered how it would work on the sort of paint die-casts are covered with. In this case the answer is - none at all. A scrub with a pan scourer did the job though and removed most of the colour.
Then a shot of Halfords grey primer which dried think and lumpy. I wonder if they have added some filler to the mix to make it wore suitable for the domestic market ?
Another scrub and a shot of Eastwood etching primer did the trick. I'll know to stick with this on future important projects !
The glazing took a bit of cleaning up with Brasso but is now reasonably clear. The rest of the bits are fine. Since the chassis has lost it's chrome plating I've painted the visible bits silver. This isn't as good as chrome but brightens it up considerably.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Fairey Huntsman
A few weeks ago I bought a job lot of model boats at an auction. To say they went for a song would be an understatement.
The sensible financial part of me said, "Stick them on eBay and make a quick profit." But the sad modelmaking bit that means I will alway be poor insists that at least of of the 3 hulls becomes a project. Since the 46" Fairey Huntsman is the nearest to being complete, that's the one I'll do.
The model is pretty well made. The motor is installed and to get it on the water I just need to fit radio gear and a servo. Before doing this I think a waterproof hull would be nice and getting rid of the brown paint that is where a proper Huntsman has white would be good too.
So on a sunny morning I took the boat outside and sanded the hull down. That paint isn't coming off but I quickly had the hull ready for a couple of coats of varnish. I suspect it's pretty watertight already but you can never be too careful. Anyway, the shiny wood looks nice in the sun so I'm happy.
The sensible financial part of me said, "Stick them on eBay and make a quick profit." But the sad modelmaking bit that means I will alway be poor insists that at least of of the 3 hulls becomes a project. Since the 46" Fairey Huntsman is the nearest to being complete, that's the one I'll do.
The model is pretty well made. The motor is installed and to get it on the water I just need to fit radio gear and a servo. Before doing this I think a waterproof hull would be nice and getting rid of the brown paint that is where a proper Huntsman has white would be good too.
So on a sunny morning I took the boat outside and sanded the hull down. That paint isn't coming off but I quickly had the hull ready for a couple of coats of varnish. I suspect it's pretty watertight already but you can never be too careful. Anyway, the shiny wood looks nice in the sun so I'm happy.
VW Beetle restoration
While I was in Bridgenorth I picked this up from an antique centre. I wouldn't normally bother but 35 years ago the centre was a garage and it sold my camper van to it's first owner.
So I'd have preferred to buy a Type 2 but this was all they had. A Matchbox VW 1500 Beetle. Condition - more than a bit tatty.
Still I suppose I can rebuild it...
So I'd have preferred to buy a Type 2 but this was all they had. A Matchbox VW 1500 Beetle. Condition - more than a bit tatty.
Still I suppose I can rebuild it...
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