Allow for the sides, basically stick the ends in the middle of the floor, run PVA along the bottom, and then superglue the whitemetal stanchions in place to brace the whole lot.
There are pitfalls for the unwary. The stanchions have extra boltheads at the bottom, so make sure they go on the right way up. Some pencil lines drawn with a square are a good idea so they are fitted accuratly, tricky if you are eyeballing it with superglue drying. FWIW, the middle two are 10mm either sides of the edges of the coupling hole, and the ends, 2mm in from the edges.
The sharp-eyed will notice that the floor wood changed colour as it emerges from the stanchion. There is a reason for this.
At one end, I managed to nudge the bufferbeam out a touch when filling the solebars. This left a gap about 1/2mm when the end was fitted to along with the bufferbeam. Nothing really to worry about, but I decided to sort it out by glueing a bit of leftover fret in the gap. Once dry overnight, I trimmed it with a saw and then sanded like mad until it was perfect.
I'm quite pleased with myself. Of course, it shouldn't have been necessary, the other end is perfect, but I always say that the art of good modelling is learning to bodge...
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