Crunch time. After three chassis builds, will the wheels turn over then power is on?
The omens were good. Those rods slipped straight on, but then as the bearing spacings were set by the rods, you'd expect that. Add in the massive amount of slop those oversized holes in the rods allow, and if there was a problem, it would be a BIG one.
For testing, the rods are retained with a bit of insulation stripped from a wire. This trick saves a lot of soldering action if there is a problem and they need to come off again for fettling.
A bit of electricity from my 60-year-old H&M controller and the model works!
To be fair, it worked a lot better once a drop of oil was applied to each bearing. I know all that rod slop is bad engineering, and that the worm gear really should sit over the middle of the axle gear, but I'll take this right now. The model moves up and down the track, and it's long while since I built something that did that.
5 comments:
Great stuff! Thanks for sharing this Phil. I'm enjoying learning how you build this type of brass kit. There's a lot more to it that I'd realised.
For testing, the rods are retained with a bit of insulation stripped from a wire.Ifs just this sort of outside the box gem of a tip that can save so much time and it is transferable to so many other scenarios once you know about it! Thanks Phil! Now noted and in my list of useful things to know! Woody
I can see one glaring problem. According to that video the rods are going anti-clockwise and the wheels are going clockwise. No idea how to fix that but hopefully it won't be obvious in real life. :-)
Blogger Colin said...
I can see one glaring problem. According to that video the rods are going anti-clockwise and the wheels are going clockwise. No idea how to fix that but hopefully it won't be obvious in real life. :-)
It's good you noticed. It took Phil AGES to get that trick to work...
G'day Phil,
"For testing, the rods are retained with a bit of insulation stripped from a wire."
Another use for this is for the tie bar on point blades.
HO scratch built points with brass wire between the toe of the point blades for fine detail.
Solder a brass tab with a suitable hole under each toe of the point blade with the hole hanging out between the point blades, insert a small piece of insulation (sheathing) in the hole then insert the wire thus creating a firm fit.
Also at the heel of the point blade, solder 5 thou brass shim on the inside of the web of the point & the closure rail. You can blow with a breath the point blades from side to side thus confirming no binding & ease of operation.
Cheers Woz
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