The great fear with old kits (and some new ones) is that the bits won’t fit together. K’s kits aren’t usually too bad on this score with relatively little fettling required.
The Armstrong cab interior is another matter. The splashers came first. From the instructions it looked like they lined up with some raised lines inside the cab sides. Put there though and there was little space in the middle for the crew. You’d struggle to get a driver in never mind the fireman !
So I decided they had to fit on top of the lines. Then they showed above the edge of the sides slightly. I thinned the metal down a lot and removed most of the cab lines to drop then down a bit. This left a gap at the bottom though which I filled with scrap etch and a lot of fettling. Thanks goodness for the gap filling properties of low melt solder.
The floor was also hopelessly wrong so some sheet nickel silver was cut to fit. I suppose I should have made the whole interior this way as it would probably have been quicker than making the supplied parts fit. If I’d stepped back and thought about it that is the way I would have gone, but at the time I had got stuck into the job and just carried on.
Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Tuesday, March 27, 2007
Puffer Crew
These resin figures from George Turner paint up ever so well. I used suitably muted colours for them, then applied a weak black wash and then toned this down with some dry-brushing and a dose of talcum powder. Between each stage I left the paint alone long enough to dry properly. Rushing things means the new coat lifts the old one and the results looks terrible.
All paint was Humbrol enamel applied with a brush. I don’t think anyone air-brushes figures do they ? If they do then the masking must take forever.
At this size you can even paint the eyes properly. All my boat crew have pupils ! Now that is taking detail too far as you won’t see this from the other side of the lake, but at least I know they are there
All paint was Humbrol enamel applied with a brush. I don’t think anyone air-brushes figures do they ? If they do then the masking must take forever.
At this size you can even paint the eyes properly. All my boat crew have pupils ! Now that is taking detail too far as you won’t see this from the other side of the lake, but at least I know they are there
Monday, March 26, 2007
Armstrong Frames
Apparently you should always start your day with the job that appeals least. That way the day will improve and you’ll feel better for getting the worst bits over first.
So it is with building kits. When I left the Armstrong the next job was to sort out the outside frames. Looking at the plan these are a bit deeper then those on the kit. Not a huge amount but enough for even me to notice. I thought that the solution would be to mark out the extra frame required on a bit of brass, cut it out with a fretsaw and solder the result to the model. This sounded like a whole load of no fun and since I had to move over to other things I left it.
After a deep breath I started on a sunny day with some relaxing music playing. More measurement shoed that the difference between the actual depth of the frames and what they should be was about 1mm. Now there is no way I’m going to cut anything that thin with a saw so another solution was needed.
In my wire pot I have, for some reason that escapes me, 0.9mm wire. I reasoned that if I soldered this on the depth of joint would take this up to 1mm at least. It was also pretty close to the thickness of the whitemetal casting.
The wire was tinned with normal solder and then chopped to length and soldered in with low-melt. A fair bit of cleaning up later along with a bit of squaring off using a small file and the job was done.
I know it’s not much but to my eyes the extra depth makes a bit of difference. Proper modellers would bin the frames and work from scratch but they are a nice shape and I’m not sure what I create would be any better than what is there.
So it is with building kits. When I left the Armstrong the next job was to sort out the outside frames. Looking at the plan these are a bit deeper then those on the kit. Not a huge amount but enough for even me to notice. I thought that the solution would be to mark out the extra frame required on a bit of brass, cut it out with a fretsaw and solder the result to the model. This sounded like a whole load of no fun and since I had to move over to other things I left it.
After a deep breath I started on a sunny day with some relaxing music playing. More measurement shoed that the difference between the actual depth of the frames and what they should be was about 1mm. Now there is no way I’m going to cut anything that thin with a saw so another solution was needed.
In my wire pot I have, for some reason that escapes me, 0.9mm wire. I reasoned that if I soldered this on the depth of joint would take this up to 1mm at least. It was also pretty close to the thickness of the whitemetal casting.
The wire was tinned with normal solder and then chopped to length and soldered in with low-melt. A fair bit of cleaning up later along with a bit of squaring off using a small file and the job was done.
I know it’s not much but to my eyes the extra depth makes a bit of difference. Proper modellers would bin the frames and work from scratch but they are a nice shape and I’m not sure what I create would be any better than what is there.
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Lead
My brother-in-law has some funny ideas sometimes. Once we were discussing weighting model boats and he said he planned to send off for lead through the post. We pointed out that the delivery would cost more than the product itself. More recently he suggested going to an architectural salvage yard for lead. There is one near us but the only lead I’ve ever seen there is firmly attached to a small dome they are selling. Anything they keep would be fancy stuff, hardly the sort of thing you fold up and put in the bilge of a boat !
Others have written about tyre shops and the leftover weights when they balance wheels. I’ve bought tyres and think that the old weights are just thrown on the ground and swept up at the end of the day. Maybe other shops are tidier but I doubt it. Anyway, I don’t want to be fishing through the sweepings of their workshop for small lumps of lead that are funny shapes and therefore difficult to stick down.
So, if anyone else is wondering where nice sensible sheet lead weight comes from, here is the answer.
This roll of roofing lead was purchased from Builders & Plumbers for the princely sum of 20 quid. For this you end up with 9kg (just under 20lbs) of flat sheet on a roll. Enough for several boats or literally yards full of model railway wagons. All you do is walk in, pick up the roll, hand it over the counter and then pay. Smaller and larger rolls are available.
Simple huh ?
Others have written about tyre shops and the leftover weights when they balance wheels. I’ve bought tyres and think that the old weights are just thrown on the ground and swept up at the end of the day. Maybe other shops are tidier but I doubt it. Anyway, I don’t want to be fishing through the sweepings of their workshop for small lumps of lead that are funny shapes and therefore difficult to stick down.
So, if anyone else is wondering where nice sensible sheet lead weight comes from, here is the answer.
This roll of roofing lead was purchased from Builders & Plumbers for the princely sum of 20 quid. For this you end up with 9kg (just under 20lbs) of flat sheet on a roll. Enough for several boats or literally yards full of model railway wagons. All you do is walk in, pick up the roll, hand it over the counter and then pay. Smaller and larger rolls are available.
Simple huh ?
Saturday, March 24, 2007
What happens to your models when you die ?
The picture shows a 1/32nd CalderCraft kit for a Clyde Puffer. It’s been beautifully built as a static model. The current cost of this kit is in the region of £250.
I bought the model in a charity shop for £40.
Obviously what happened was the builder died and the model was donated to the charity shop. They saw it as nothing better than the Chinese solid hull boats that appear in every gift shop in the country and priced it appropriately. It’s so much more than that. The quality of the modelling is superb. The rigging alone is a masterpiece. Even little details such as spare wooden chocks scattered on the deck are present.
I would be proud to build the kit to this quality.
Yet people who can’t recognise it for the masterpiece it is effectively dump it in a charity shop. The builder must have invested 200 hours or more in construction, a real labour of love. If I hadn’t bought it, the model could have ended up on a shelf getting dusty and damaged, or worse given to a kid top play with in the bath ! At least I will fit it out with radio control, make a proper box and treat it with the respect it deserves. Apart from the mechanical bits my only changes will be to add a crew and change the name from the one supplied in the kit – I fancy “Sunny Jim” for this one.
The boat went to the Knightcote Model Boat clubs last social evening where we discussed what people’s plans were for their models in the future. The question was, “How do you make sure that your nearest & dearest appreciate your work ?”
Some people will be lucky enough to have family who will think as much of the models that you have created as you do. Most though, will think that the models are little more than toys that they were slightly embarrassed that Dad/Mum etc. spent so much time and money making. Worse, there will be people out there who resented the time and/or money invested and will be delighted to chuck the whole lot out as an act of revenge.
Imagine yourself looking down from your cloud and seeing all the models you put your heart into going down the tip or sitting on the table at a car boot sale while punters haggle over pennies. Your relatives might also miss out on the value of the models if they don’t want to hang on to them. This model would easily have sold for much more than the price of the kit yet the owner received nothing for it. Good for the charity but if they could use the money to supplement a pension…
I bought the model in a charity shop for £40.
Obviously what happened was the builder died and the model was donated to the charity shop. They saw it as nothing better than the Chinese solid hull boats that appear in every gift shop in the country and priced it appropriately. It’s so much more than that. The quality of the modelling is superb. The rigging alone is a masterpiece. Even little details such as spare wooden chocks scattered on the deck are present.
I would be proud to build the kit to this quality.
Yet people who can’t recognise it for the masterpiece it is effectively dump it in a charity shop. The builder must have invested 200 hours or more in construction, a real labour of love. If I hadn’t bought it, the model could have ended up on a shelf getting dusty and damaged, or worse given to a kid top play with in the bath ! At least I will fit it out with radio control, make a proper box and treat it with the respect it deserves. Apart from the mechanical bits my only changes will be to add a crew and change the name from the one supplied in the kit – I fancy “Sunny Jim” for this one.
The boat went to the Knightcote Model Boat clubs last social evening where we discussed what people’s plans were for their models in the future. The question was, “How do you make sure that your nearest & dearest appreciate your work ?”
Some people will be lucky enough to have family who will think as much of the models that you have created as you do. Most though, will think that the models are little more than toys that they were slightly embarrassed that Dad/Mum etc. spent so much time and money making. Worse, there will be people out there who resented the time and/or money invested and will be delighted to chuck the whole lot out as an act of revenge.
Imagine yourself looking down from your cloud and seeing all the models you put your heart into going down the tip or sitting on the table at a car boot sale while punters haggle over pennies. Your relatives might also miss out on the value of the models if they don’t want to hang on to them. This model would easily have sold for much more than the price of the kit yet the owner received nothing for it. Good for the charity but if they could use the money to supplement a pension…
Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Crew
For reasons that will become clear to you soon dear reader, I need a crew for a Clyde Puffer. So I sent off to George Turner for one of his sets of 1/32nd people. After more than a little deliberation I chose my set, send off just over a tenner and a few days later received a package in the post.
The model sailors contained inside were made of polyester resin. A little flash was present but nothing gentle scraping wouldn’t remove easily. They also seemed to be more slippery than resin usually is – I took this to be a residue of release agent and gave then all a scrub with washing up liquid but it didn’t really make a difference.
Resin in the raw isn’t the easiest material to see detail in. Normally I wouldn’t bother to prime it but this time I did to reveal the detail properly. Cheapo car primer worked fine. Since most modern cars are made of plastic I suppose it is what it’s designed for nowadays.
Anyway, here is the crew in their glory. With a bit more painting they will adorn a suitable model boat in a few days.
The model sailors contained inside were made of polyester resin. A little flash was present but nothing gentle scraping wouldn’t remove easily. They also seemed to be more slippery than resin usually is – I took this to be a residue of release agent and gave then all a scrub with washing up liquid but it didn’t really make a difference.
Resin in the raw isn’t the easiest material to see detail in. Normally I wouldn’t bother to prime it but this time I did to reveal the detail properly. Cheapo car primer worked fine. Since most modern cars are made of plastic I suppose it is what it’s designed for nowadays.
Anyway, here is the crew in their glory. With a bit more painting they will adorn a suitable model boat in a few days.
Monday, March 19, 2007
Thank you.
This is beer. Very nice beer. I received it for fixing Richards bike bracket again. No thanks were asked for but it’s nice to get some anyway.
For more details of the beer, visit the website. I need to go and have a snooze now…
For more details of the beer, visit the website. I need to go and have a snooze now…
Sunday, March 18, 2007
Dead nose ?
What do you plan to do with your red nose from Friday ?
Well why not hand it to your nearest model maker who drives/sails/flies with radio control. They can then put it on top of the aerial of their transmitter where it will protect the eyes of all around them from being poked.
Simple init ?
Well why not hand it to your nearest model maker who drives/sails/flies with radio control. They can then put it on top of the aerial of their transmitter where it will protect the eyes of all around them from being poked.
Simple init ?
Saturday, March 17, 2007
Kingsbury 3mm event
If you build models in odd scales it pays to be a member of the appropriate scale society. That way you have access to the bits required to build what you want. Not belonging will often be like working with a hand tied behind your back.
So, because I model railways in 3mm scale, I am a member of the 3mm Society.
Now I would normally buy my bits via mail order, or at least I used to until the guy who ran the shop became a member of our local railway club so I can just get him to bring stuff along. That only covers Society parts though, so I still need the post.
There’s nothing to beat actually handling the goods of course. Fortunately the Society organises occasional days where the main traders can be found. One such was held today in Kingsbury, Birmingham.
The event takes place in a hall at a school. Not the most salubrious of setting but not bad – there are far worse areas of Brum. We travelled by train, walking from Gravelly Hill station. This took about 15 minutes, far quicker and cheaper than the equivalent bus ride out of the city centre. There are more trains too so it’s convenient.
Once inside there were 6 traders including the Society shop and second hand sales. The later still has unbuilt Kitmaster coaches at a fiver a go. We must all have had our fill for these as they were still there in the early afternoon.
I planned to buy a loco kit for Flockburgh. My usual reaction to getting a layout write up in a magazine is to treat the model to a nice new loco as a reward for it behaving itself. Daft I know but the cheque has to be spent on something and I do get a new shiny kit out of it…
Anyway, the kit chosen was a Jinty. Not the best choice in prototype terms perhaps, but it is an 0-6-0 chassis (I’ve built those before so I should be OK) and most importantly a Triang Jinty was the model that started all this 3mm stuff years ago. I suspect that the finescale and RTR versions will be compared many times when I have to explain the difference to a punter at a show.
There were a few impulse buys too. The sides and ends for a GWR railcar and some wheels and some Dogfish wagons were bought at the same time. A Worsley Loco works Class 24 along with 3SMR supplied RTR power bogies nearly came home as well but sense prevailed. Well if sense is not buying kits you will take years to get around to building then it prevailed.
Now I have a box is the kit, wheels, motor & gearbox. All I need now is the time to build it.
So, because I model railways in 3mm scale, I am a member of the 3mm Society.
Now I would normally buy my bits via mail order, or at least I used to until the guy who ran the shop became a member of our local railway club so I can just get him to bring stuff along. That only covers Society parts though, so I still need the post.
There’s nothing to beat actually handling the goods of course. Fortunately the Society organises occasional days where the main traders can be found. One such was held today in Kingsbury, Birmingham.
The event takes place in a hall at a school. Not the most salubrious of setting but not bad – there are far worse areas of Brum. We travelled by train, walking from Gravelly Hill station. This took about 15 minutes, far quicker and cheaper than the equivalent bus ride out of the city centre. There are more trains too so it’s convenient.
Once inside there were 6 traders including the Society shop and second hand sales. The later still has unbuilt Kitmaster coaches at a fiver a go. We must all have had our fill for these as they were still there in the early afternoon.
I planned to buy a loco kit for Flockburgh. My usual reaction to getting a layout write up in a magazine is to treat the model to a nice new loco as a reward for it behaving itself. Daft I know but the cheque has to be spent on something and I do get a new shiny kit out of it…
Anyway, the kit chosen was a Jinty. Not the best choice in prototype terms perhaps, but it is an 0-6-0 chassis (I’ve built those before so I should be OK) and most importantly a Triang Jinty was the model that started all this 3mm stuff years ago. I suspect that the finescale and RTR versions will be compared many times when I have to explain the difference to a punter at a show.
There were a few impulse buys too. The sides and ends for a GWR railcar and some wheels and some Dogfish wagons were bought at the same time. A Worsley Loco works Class 24 along with 3SMR supplied RTR power bogies nearly came home as well but sense prevailed. Well if sense is not buying kits you will take years to get around to building then it prevailed.
Now I have a box is the kit, wheels, motor & gearbox. All I need now is the time to build it.
Friday, March 16, 2007
I finally make something !
Idris needed some way for the crew to tie up at the quayside. Since no parts are provided in the kit for this I fiddled around with some plastic to make bollards to do the job.
Size was worked out by punching circles in .5mm (I think, didn’t bother to measure) sheet with an office hole punch and then picking plastic tube of about the right thickness. The base is leftover sheet from another kit.
I like this odd’n’ends fiddling around. Making bits out of scrap is fun and when it goes well, very satisfying. Add to this the satisfaction of making something quickly and it’s all good news.
A quick coat of matt aluminium paint to the bollards and some parts from a boat show and the model is nearly finished. With the weather improving she should get a proper maiden voyage this weekend.
Size was worked out by punching circles in .5mm (I think, didn’t bother to measure) sheet with an office hole punch and then picking plastic tube of about the right thickness. The base is leftover sheet from another kit.
I like this odd’n’ends fiddling around. Making bits out of scrap is fun and when it goes well, very satisfying. Add to this the satisfaction of making something quickly and it’s all good news.
A quick coat of matt aluminium paint to the bollards and some parts from a boat show and the model is nearly finished. With the weather improving she should get a proper maiden voyage this weekend.
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
I never learn
Thanks to a couple of meetings in London I faced an hour and half-long train ride this afternoon. Since I don’t have a handy paperback to entertain me a trip to Smiths for some reading matter. A few minutes and seven quid later I’m the owner of a mag on VW Campervans and a copy of Model Rail.
The reason I bought the magazine was because of the main cover story “The Jet Age” promising to tell me how to model BR’s gas turbines. This is a subject that interests me a lot. I’ve read the books and even have a rather lumpy model based on a fibreglass or resin body that dates from some time in the 1980’s that I picked up on a second hand stall years ago. It’s in the projects drawer waiting for me to get around to it – like so many other jobs !
So I read the article and remembered why I normally don’t buy the magazine. It wasn’t that it was a bad piece, just that it had enough information to get interesting but not enough detail. And it’s always like this. Promising reading that fizzles out.
The problem is of course that Model Rail is a fine magazine, just not for me. I’m a long way from the target market it’s aimed at. This is fine as there are a lot more beginners and intermediate modellers (a bit of a lumpy term but I can’t think of anything better) than finescalers like me who want to make stuff and will read long articles on fiddling with brass or worrying about obscure details. I suppose that’s why they are still in business !
Still, I got to look at some nice pictures and will keep the article, complete with the rather nice plan of GT3, in the collection. Perhaps I’ll build my own turbine one day, but not this week…
The reason I bought the magazine was because of the main cover story “The Jet Age” promising to tell me how to model BR’s gas turbines. This is a subject that interests me a lot. I’ve read the books and even have a rather lumpy model based on a fibreglass or resin body that dates from some time in the 1980’s that I picked up on a second hand stall years ago. It’s in the projects drawer waiting for me to get around to it – like so many other jobs !
So I read the article and remembered why I normally don’t buy the magazine. It wasn’t that it was a bad piece, just that it had enough information to get interesting but not enough detail. And it’s always like this. Promising reading that fizzles out.
The problem is of course that Model Rail is a fine magazine, just not for me. I’m a long way from the target market it’s aimed at. This is fine as there are a lot more beginners and intermediate modellers (a bit of a lumpy term but I can’t think of anything better) than finescalers like me who want to make stuff and will read long articles on fiddling with brass or worrying about obscure details. I suppose that’s why they are still in business !
Still, I got to look at some nice pictures and will keep the article, complete with the rather nice plan of GT3, in the collection. Perhaps I’ll build my own turbine one day, but not this week…
Tuesday, March 13, 2007
Old Tools
Sorry about the lack of blog posts as my job has been a bit stupid recently and so I’ve been too tired to build. No building means no blogging either, or at least nothing particularly new to blog about.
The other thing that has chewed up my time has been working on disposing of the modelling equipment that belonged to a late friend. Over a lifetimes building he amassed a huge selection of tools and models. The railway kits are fairly easy to deal with, the tools less so.
Many of the tools are worn. Not in a bad way but in a way that indicates much careful use. You look at a handle where the varnish has rubbed away and think of the many hours of (hopefully) pleasurable use the tool has seen. It’s a bit like smooth bark on a tree that has seen the backsides of many childish tree climbers – a nice smoothness that should never be restored.
Of course I have been proud to add to my toolkit from this. I quite like second hand tools because of the history attached to them. I have some that belonged to my Granddad as well. He was an engineer and I like to think that he would approve of my work even though it is in an amateur capacity. Using inherited tools makes me think that the original owner is helping out. Sometimes I need all the help I can get !
The other thing that has chewed up my time has been working on disposing of the modelling equipment that belonged to a late friend. Over a lifetimes building he amassed a huge selection of tools and models. The railway kits are fairly easy to deal with, the tools less so.
Many of the tools are worn. Not in a bad way but in a way that indicates much careful use. You look at a handle where the varnish has rubbed away and think of the many hours of (hopefully) pleasurable use the tool has seen. It’s a bit like smooth bark on a tree that has seen the backsides of many childish tree climbers – a nice smoothness that should never be restored.
Of course I have been proud to add to my toolkit from this. I quite like second hand tools because of the history attached to them. I have some that belonged to my Granddad as well. He was an engineer and I like to think that he would approve of my work even though it is in an amateur capacity. Using inherited tools makes me think that the original owner is helping out. Sometimes I need all the help I can get !
Sunday, March 11, 2007
Customs Boat
Yesterday I took a little trip out to the Mobile Marine Models model boat show. Its an informal event that takes place at MMM’s factory in Linconshire.
There was a good turn out with several bits of the event showing why the premises were not really ideal for an exhibition venue no matter how good they were as a factory ! No-one seemed to mind much and we all enjoyed ourselves.
As well as MMM, Deans Marine, Model Power & SMG Models attended and all seemed to be doing good business. Model boats shows are thinner on the ground than model railway ones. This is a bit of a surprise to me as the models themselves are easier to move and the number of traders lower. I suppose that for a really good show you need some water, something this one lacked, so boats can be shown off to their best advantage. That’s not easy to arrange what with 50 ft square paddling pools being a bit expensive.
There were models on show as well with several clubs having stands. The model shown wins my “Best of Show Award” simply because it was the one I wanted to build most ahead of strong competition. A small but detailed Customs boat, it’s perhaps not the obvious choice as there are more glamorous models or ones with more to look at but I like it.
This sort of boat has many advantages. It should be fairly quick to build. A Robbie Dollie kit would give a pretty quick approximation if this model isn’t a kit itself (I didn’t ask) and take only a few hours to assemble. The result ought to handle well on the water being pretty manoeuvrable. Most importantly if it’s running on ni-cads a 20 minute charge will have to on the water should the opportunity arise at short notice. For example if the weather is unexpectedly nice one morning or even after work.
There was a good turn out with several bits of the event showing why the premises were not really ideal for an exhibition venue no matter how good they were as a factory ! No-one seemed to mind much and we all enjoyed ourselves.
As well as MMM, Deans Marine, Model Power & SMG Models attended and all seemed to be doing good business. Model boats shows are thinner on the ground than model railway ones. This is a bit of a surprise to me as the models themselves are easier to move and the number of traders lower. I suppose that for a really good show you need some water, something this one lacked, so boats can be shown off to their best advantage. That’s not easy to arrange what with 50 ft square paddling pools being a bit expensive.
There were models on show as well with several clubs having stands. The model shown wins my “Best of Show Award” simply because it was the one I wanted to build most ahead of strong competition. A small but detailed Customs boat, it’s perhaps not the obvious choice as there are more glamorous models or ones with more to look at but I like it.
This sort of boat has many advantages. It should be fairly quick to build. A Robbie Dollie kit would give a pretty quick approximation if this model isn’t a kit itself (I didn’t ask) and take only a few hours to assemble. The result ought to handle well on the water being pretty manoeuvrable. Most importantly if it’s running on ni-cads a 20 minute charge will have to on the water should the opportunity arise at short notice. For example if the weather is unexpectedly nice one morning or even after work.
Friday, March 09, 2007
African Queen
I’m helping my Dad build a new model boat – Billings “African Queen” kit.
Although the kit is described as suitable for radio control it’s difficult to work out where this is supposed to go. The boat is pretty open so hiding the “gubbins” isn’t easy. The instructions and plans don’t help either.
As you can see from the picture, we’ve managed to keep everything below the decking. Just. The batteries will go in the log bunker under a false load which keeps them easily accessible. Four AA’s look like they’ll be enough to run the boat for at least an hour. Replacing them at the waterside won’t be a problem either. We can even buy a pack of Duracells if we want to sail at the drop of a hat.
The centre of the boat houses the steam engine, in this case a plastic fake but it will look the part. It’ll hide the receiver and speed control.
A quick test in the bath revealed a lot of lead is needed. So much that the batteries sitting at the side don’t affect the trim. This is added in the form of giant lead shot from divers weight belts (we were given a couple of worn out ones) packed into sandwich bags and wedged into the spaces at the side of the hull.
Next stop is the lake for a proper sail. If all is well the rest of the woodwork goes in and a 1/12 Bogart & Hepburn need to be found, or should that be "cast" ?
Although the kit is described as suitable for radio control it’s difficult to work out where this is supposed to go. The boat is pretty open so hiding the “gubbins” isn’t easy. The instructions and plans don’t help either.
As you can see from the picture, we’ve managed to keep everything below the decking. Just. The batteries will go in the log bunker under a false load which keeps them easily accessible. Four AA’s look like they’ll be enough to run the boat for at least an hour. Replacing them at the waterside won’t be a problem either. We can even buy a pack of Duracells if we want to sail at the drop of a hat.
The centre of the boat houses the steam engine, in this case a plastic fake but it will look the part. It’ll hide the receiver and speed control.
A quick test in the bath revealed a lot of lead is needed. So much that the batteries sitting at the side don’t affect the trim. This is added in the form of giant lead shot from divers weight belts (we were given a couple of worn out ones) packed into sandwich bags and wedged into the spaces at the side of the hull.
Next stop is the lake for a proper sail. If all is well the rest of the woodwork goes in and a 1/12 Bogart & Hepburn need to be found, or should that be "cast" ?
Thursday, March 08, 2007
Learning to love DCC
Is progress a good thing ? For a long while I've been unconvinced about DCC and all the marketing has simply made me even more sceptical. Many people seem to be buying into it as another gizmo, a bit like they might get a shiny new mobile 'phone or camcorder. Others have shrugged their shoulders and decided that this is the future and there's nothing we can do about it.
My model making is partly a reaction to my job. During the day I look after a website. In my spare time I like to work with my hands. I mention this to show it's not the technology that puts me off. On the contrary, I love a bit of technology - but only in the right place and that is the problem. People tell me DCC is the answer, but I'm not even interested in asking the question !
All technology matures eventually and stops existing for its own sake. As an example, we no longer stare at a computer as a thing of wonder, it's just a tool to do a job as it should be. Now though, I think I've seen the future and finally get the point of DCC.
My photo shows a 7mm scale layout called "Vine Street". A model of a small station set in BR days with steam and green diesels it isn't that unusual. What entranced me was the sound.
Sound effects have been available to railway modellers since the 1960's - Triang made a loco with steam sound generated by a tender axle mounted metal flap rubbing on sandpaper. Mostly these have been a bit rubbish though.
This was different. Modern sound units employ digitised noise sampled from real locomotives. We've come a long way from the days of generic 'white noise' for steam engines. Oil burners even make different sounds as the engine speed increases.
This is where DCC scores. The model can be made to make tickover sounds or gently hiss when not in use. The temptation must be to record a background soundtrack to complete the effect. Perhaps even some suitably muffled
station announcements could be made ? I seem to remember that Hornby made a suitable device a few years ago...
Nothing is perfect of course. Vine Street's class 47 roars like you have your head in the engine room while the 0-4-2 chuffs gently as though you are hearing it from a distance. The later is spot on but a little volume control will fix things.
So maybe I'll go digital one day. Not yet though. My tiny little locos are too full of motors, gears and lead to fit a chip in at present. Anyway it's nice being a ludite !
I wonder if I could use clockwork motors ?
My model making is partly a reaction to my job. During the day I look after a website. In my spare time I like to work with my hands. I mention this to show it's not the technology that puts me off. On the contrary, I love a bit of technology - but only in the right place and that is the problem. People tell me DCC is the answer, but I'm not even interested in asking the question !
All technology matures eventually and stops existing for its own sake. As an example, we no longer stare at a computer as a thing of wonder, it's just a tool to do a job as it should be. Now though, I think I've seen the future and finally get the point of DCC.
My photo shows a 7mm scale layout called "Vine Street". A model of a small station set in BR days with steam and green diesels it isn't that unusual. What entranced me was the sound.
Sound effects have been available to railway modellers since the 1960's - Triang made a loco with steam sound generated by a tender axle mounted metal flap rubbing on sandpaper. Mostly these have been a bit rubbish though.
This was different. Modern sound units employ digitised noise sampled from real locomotives. We've come a long way from the days of generic 'white noise' for steam engines. Oil burners even make different sounds as the engine speed increases.
This is where DCC scores. The model can be made to make tickover sounds or gently hiss when not in use. The temptation must be to record a background soundtrack to complete the effect. Perhaps even some suitably muffled
station announcements could be made ? I seem to remember that Hornby made a suitable device a few years ago...
Nothing is perfect of course. Vine Street's class 47 roars like you have your head in the engine room while the 0-4-2 chuffs gently as though you are hearing it from a distance. The later is spot on but a little volume control will fix things.
So maybe I'll go digital one day. Not yet though. My tiny little locos are too full of motors, gears and lead to fit a chip in at present. Anyway it's nice being a ludite !
I wonder if I could use clockwork motors ?
Wednesday, March 07, 2007
Fame in BRM
The April edition of British Railway Modelling features an article on Flockburgh.
The pictures look
very nice but I suspect the text might not keep everyone happy as I’ve tried to tell the story "warts and all". No doubt there will be a few people who will be horrified at this because it might put people off trying 3mm modelling. In my opinion, you do the scale no favours by having newcomers entering thinking everything will be as easy as working in OO.
I also think that telling people about the problems encountered makes for a more interesting article. To be honest, layout articles bore me to death as they all follow the same format – introduction, baseboard, wiring, scenics, rolling stock, conclusion & thanks. Because you have a bit subject to cover in a few short pages the detail is missed. To me the detail is what matters.
The trick when writing interesting articles is focusing on a single subject area. Nothing too small – very few people in a general magazine want to read six pages on how you built a single buffer – but individual buildings, items of rolling stock or a particular technique work OK.
I also try to make an effort to proof read the text a few times. This article has one spot where I think the text is clumsy and could be improved, pretty good for me as I’ve read past pieces once they have appeared in print and been appalled at the result. Proofing can’t (for me) be done on screen. I suspect this is why the blog postings can fumble but I’m not printing them all out – that is reserved for magazine work. This blog is much more immediate, reportage rather than reflection so it operates by different rules.
No doubt the grammar experts can pull my text apart. Tough. I’ll do my best but at the end of the day I won’t be faffing around over apostrophes if it gets in the way of the message. All I can hope to do is string some words together that people enjoy reading. The punter has paid his or her money for more than pretty pictures and the editor won’t be happy if the pictures they have commissioned are surrounded by little more than sub literate captions !
Of course if you do just want pretty pictures, in the same issue there are some nice shots of dock shunters. I’ve done a couple of the locos shown and the rest do look very modelable…
At the end of the day, it’s my train set in my words. I don’t know if anyone else like it and would be interested in comments. What do you want from a magazine ?
Tuesday, March 06, 2007
Pegging Out
This is a quickie project that has only taken me a year and a bit to get around to…
At the boat club we have a frequency board. It’s a simple device, before you switch anything on you clip a peg to the frequency you plan to use. This stops any clash of frequencies and hopefully means an absence of out of control models on the water. Those that exist are supposed to be under control by someone.
You have to provide a peg, with your name written on it, something that has taken me 14 months to sort out.
Of course, it’s because I wanted to do things properly. The peg has been varnished to protect the wood since these pegs live outside all year round. Then I carefully painted my name and a picture of me on. Finally a coat of gloss varnish seals the job. This is a beautifully crafted peg that will be the envy of other sailors. I am truly the Chipendale of peg painting.
At the boat club we have a frequency board. It’s a simple device, before you switch anything on you clip a peg to the frequency you plan to use. This stops any clash of frequencies and hopefully means an absence of out of control models on the water. Those that exist are supposed to be under control by someone.
You have to provide a peg, with your name written on it, something that has taken me 14 months to sort out.
Of course, it’s because I wanted to do things properly. The peg has been varnished to protect the wood since these pegs live outside all year round. Then I carefully painted my name and a picture of me on. Finally a coat of gloss varnish seals the job. This is a beautifully crafted peg that will be the envy of other sailors. I am truly the Chipendale of peg painting.
Monday, March 05, 2007
The Armstong's back !
I can’t believe it’s March already. The Armstrong was supposed to be finished long ago – at least in my slightly hopeless plan.
Anyway, it’s out of the cupboard now and before I kick off I’m taking the chance to look at it with a critical eye. Like proof reading your own text, examining a model locomotive you have built with the eye of another is pretty difficult but it has to be done.
Most of the models I build are done in stages. Every so often the kit goes back in its box while I do something else. Then it comes out again and I start with renewed enthusiasm. Let’s face it, this is a hobby so slogging through something you don’t enjoy is pointless. I get enough of this at work !
Anyway, it’s out of the cupboard now and before I kick off I’m taking the chance to look at it with a critical eye. Like proof reading your own text, examining a model locomotive you have built with the eye of another is pretty difficult but it has to be done.
Most of the models I build are done in stages. Every so often the kit goes back in its box while I do something else. Then it comes out again and I start with renewed enthusiasm. Let’s face it, this is a hobby so slogging through something you don’t enjoy is pointless. I get enough of this at work !
Saturday, March 03, 2007
Captain on the bridge
From the figure selection I picked the JCB driver and a soldier using binoculars as Idris’s crew.
The driver lost his arms and lower legs. These were re-attached in new positions so he’d fit the seat and reach the wheel. The arms were a pain to stick so I shoved Peco track pins in with a soldering iron to hold them in place. The legs went on OK with superglue. His hard hat was sufficiently unconvincing to look OK as a casual cap once painted beige. To be honest the kit wheel should be replaced as it’s too large and crude. If I did this agin something made of wire would be substituted.
The soldier took a bit of carving to remove holsters and other military paraphernalia. I cut a slot in his forehead with a razor saw and inserted some plastic to turn his hat into a baseball cap. This is pretty convincing and really easy to do.
Both figures were completely repainted to make their clothes look casual. Originally they both wore shorts but this didn’t look right so blues jeans were the order of the day. Considering the soldier is wearing long boots, it’s amazing how difficult it is to spot this.
The driver lost his arms and lower legs. These were re-attached in new positions so he’d fit the seat and reach the wheel. The arms were a pain to stick so I shoved Peco track pins in with a soldering iron to hold them in place. The legs went on OK with superglue. His hard hat was sufficiently unconvincing to look OK as a casual cap once painted beige. To be honest the kit wheel should be replaced as it’s too large and crude. If I did this agin something made of wire would be substituted.
The soldier took a bit of carving to remove holsters and other military paraphernalia. I cut a slot in his forehead with a razor saw and inserted some plastic to turn his hat into a baseball cap. This is pretty convincing and really easy to do.
Both figures were completely repainted to make their clothes look casual. Originally they both wore shorts but this didn’t look right so blues jeans were the order of the day. Considering the soldier is wearing long boots, it’s amazing how difficult it is to spot this.
How do normal people do this ?
Today I replaced the battery in the back of a watch. This entailed removing four screws to open the back and then three more screws to get the battery out. I thin had to put them all back in again once the new cell was in place.
If, unlike me, you don’t have drawers full of tiny screwdrivers and tweezers – how would you do this ?
If, unlike me, you don’t have drawers full of tiny screwdrivers and tweezers – how would you do this ?
Friday, March 02, 2007
At last, a bit that fits !
Hooray – I fitted a part to my van and it went in easily and quickly, just as I expected it would.
Best of all, for me it was free.
Yes, it was my annual chance to gloat at new car owners as I received my free tax disk for a historic vehicle. I didn’t even have to troop down to the post office as the renewal was carried out by phone using the new electronic system.
Isn’t technology great.
Now if the mechanic would actually pick up the van as promised and take it away for welding, I might be even happier.
Best of all, for me it was free.
Yes, it was my annual chance to gloat at new car owners as I received my free tax disk for a historic vehicle. I didn’t even have to troop down to the post office as the renewal was carried out by phone using the new electronic system.
Isn’t technology great.
Now if the mechanic would actually pick up the van as promised and take it away for welding, I might be even happier.
Thursday, March 01, 2007
Junk mail has its uses
With the Slingshot in bits for fixing I decided it would be a good idea to paint the hull. On the far side of the pond it’s not easy to see such a low profile model boat. Being able to see the boat might help improve my racing. Mind you, even if I can see the craft, at present everyone else’s is the same colour !
I thought long and hard about the colour scheme. Early plans revolved around another fade paint job, similar to my Tomkat. Then perhaps a bold two colour job with sharp (read: easy to mask) edges. In the end though, I decided to keep things simple The black top covers much of the hull so a complex paint job would be a bit of a waste of time.
The final choice, bright orange, was the result of a number of factors:
So I masked the bits not to be orange off and started work. Newspaper is great for masking but can tear easily. Office paper is a better and as luck would have it a credit card company had decided to send me a whole envelope of the stuff that morning in the post !
Now here is a handy hint. Aerosol cans that are after 8 years old and have spent two years stored in a greenhouse aren’t always in the best condition. This was like painting with a hosepipe. Even after a lot of shaking the pressure was terrible but coverage was good so I persevered. The end result was more than a bit bumpy but before I can do anything about this I’ll have to leave it to dry and harden properly.
It’s very orange though. Success !
I thought long and hard about the colour scheme. Early plans revolved around another fade paint job, similar to my Tomkat. Then perhaps a bold two colour job with sharp (read: easy to mask) edges. In the end though, I decided to keep things simple The black top covers much of the hull so a complex paint job would be a bit of a waste of time.
The final choice, bright orange, was the result of a number of factors:
- Orange will stand out well from a distance
- The frequency I race on is colour coded orange
- I have an orange car so I like the colour
- I have an orange car so I have spare cans of orange spray paint
So I masked the bits not to be orange off and started work. Newspaper is great for masking but can tear easily. Office paper is a better and as luck would have it a credit card company had decided to send me a whole envelope of the stuff that morning in the post !
Now here is a handy hint. Aerosol cans that are after 8 years old and have spent two years stored in a greenhouse aren’t always in the best condition. This was like painting with a hosepipe. Even after a lot of shaking the pressure was terrible but coverage was good so I persevered. The end result was more than a bit bumpy but before I can do anything about this I’ll have to leave it to dry and harden properly.
It’s very orange though. Success !
Tuesday, February 27, 2007
Wanted: A Captain
What scale is this boat ?
It doesn’t say on the packet so I suspect the makers did it all by eye. It’s certainly not based on anything real as far as I can tell, just a generic cruiser. Not that this matters except when it comes to finding a captain.
If I planned things properly then I’d have picked some suitable figures up at the Harrogate show or one of the model shops I’ve been in recently. I didn’t so it was into Leamington to try and find something.
Another element of my lack of planning was not to work out what size person I needed. This meant wandering around a town devoid of toyshops or anywhere else apart from the local railway model shop. This is excellent but mainly 2 & 4mm scale so their figures were likely to be too small.
So during my wanderings I found a man in a JCB (£2.99 bargain), a Harry Potter rip off, G scale Bachmann man and a 1/32nd scale toy soldier.
It looks like the JCB man and the soldier will do the job with the others heading for the spares box to be used again one day. They both need modification but that’s part of the fun.
It doesn’t say on the packet so I suspect the makers did it all by eye. It’s certainly not based on anything real as far as I can tell, just a generic cruiser. Not that this matters except when it comes to finding a captain.
If I planned things properly then I’d have picked some suitable figures up at the Harrogate show or one of the model shops I’ve been in recently. I didn’t so it was into Leamington to try and find something.
Another element of my lack of planning was not to work out what size person I needed. This meant wandering around a town devoid of toyshops or anywhere else apart from the local railway model shop. This is excellent but mainly 2 & 4mm scale so their figures were likely to be too small.
So during my wanderings I found a man in a JCB (£2.99 bargain), a Harry Potter rip off, G scale Bachmann man and a 1/32nd scale toy soldier.
It looks like the JCB man and the soldier will do the job with the others heading for the spares box to be used again one day. They both need modification but that’s part of the fun.
Monday, February 26, 2007
This is not my boat...
…but mine looked a lot like this. Perhaps not with a green bottom though.
There we were racing around the pond. I’m in the lead (just) and going well. Then I clip a buoy flipping the boat upside down. No idea how it happened, just lucky I suppose.
This means waiting for the wind to blow my model to the side. None of us had anything suitable to drive the boat rescuing devises – all we had was fast electric and you need slow manoeuvrable models to rescue other boats. Nature and a garden rake had to take its course.
Suprisingly the Slingshot seems to have taken very little water on board. Something must have gone though as a couple of laps into the next race, the propeller screwed itself hard up against the shaft so I stopped dead. These craft don’t have a reverse gear either so that wasn’t an option.
The only thing for it was to return to the bench, take the top off the model and fix things. Still, while I was in there it seemed like a good idea to get painting again.
My racing career isn’t going too well though. I definitely seem to have deja-vu about all this.
There we were racing around the pond. I’m in the lead (just) and going well. Then I clip a buoy flipping the boat upside down. No idea how it happened, just lucky I suppose.
This means waiting for the wind to blow my model to the side. None of us had anything suitable to drive the boat rescuing devises – all we had was fast electric and you need slow manoeuvrable models to rescue other boats. Nature and a garden rake had to take its course.
Suprisingly the Slingshot seems to have taken very little water on board. Something must have gone though as a couple of laps into the next race, the propeller screwed itself hard up against the shaft so I stopped dead. These craft don’t have a reverse gear either so that wasn’t an option.
The only thing for it was to return to the bench, take the top off the model and fix things. Still, while I was in there it seemed like a good idea to get painting again.
My racing career isn’t going too well though. I definitely seem to have deja-vu about all this.
Sunday, February 25, 2007
Ready for racing
On the last Sunday of every month at the model boat club we are racing Ripmax SlingShots. Last year we tried Tomkats but they proved to be pretty unreliable so races turned into tests of reliability and luck not driver skill.
I have one of the early batch of Slingshots which needed a bit of work. The coupling needed some glue to stop the collar at one end from slipping. I also superglued it to the motor shaft as there was a bit of slipping. The prop shaft end already had a flat filed to allow the grub screw to “key” properly.
With the top off the boat I painted the figure on a whim. Originally I fancied just painting the area around the driver black but this became a desire to give him a different colour helmet. Picking fluorescent orange wasn’t clever – the paint slipped off the supplied red colour. I suspect a matt paint would have worked better here.
The top was taped back on the boat with black insulating tape as the original stickers don’t take kindly to removal. This looks pretty nice if neatly done and anyway, most of the boats in the club have long since lost the original graphics for the same reason.
I have one of the early batch of Slingshots which needed a bit of work. The coupling needed some glue to stop the collar at one end from slipping. I also superglued it to the motor shaft as there was a bit of slipping. The prop shaft end already had a flat filed to allow the grub screw to “key” properly.
With the top off the boat I painted the figure on a whim. Originally I fancied just painting the area around the driver black but this became a desire to give him a different colour helmet. Picking fluorescent orange wasn’t clever – the paint slipped off the supplied red colour. I suspect a matt paint would have worked better here.
The top was taped back on the boat with black insulating tape as the original stickers don’t take kindly to removal. This looks pretty nice if neatly done and anyway, most of the boats in the club have long since lost the original graphics for the same reason.
Saturday, February 24, 2007
Swimming platform
Let me start this post with a warm welcome to readers who have found my blog via Modelboat Mayhem. I also need to apologise to you as the link you’ll have followed will have brought up only the posts relating to model boats – and there haven’t been any new ones for a week ‘cos I’ve been writing about model railways. If you want the full, unexpurgated version of this blog try this link. You might want to dig back in the archives as well because there is a lot of boat content in there that predates Blogger’s facility to categorise posts.
Anyway, there has been a bit of boat progress. My cardboard boat (hereafter known as Idris) now has it’s swimming platform attached. This is a great example of the laser cut woodworkers art. I doubt that it would be possible to cut all those squares out of a sheet of wood any other way. All I see is grief as the wood splits or the holes become irregular in size. Perhaps it’s my lack of skill but I know I couldn’t do this any other way. If there grid isn’t perfect though, it will stand out a mile.
The wood was sprayed with Plasticote varnish and then lightly sanded. Using waterproof (I hope) PVA I stuck it to the back of the model complete with it’s little supporting pieces. The whole lot was then brush painted with satin varnish. Great care had to be taken to avoid filling any of the holes – there is enough surface tension in the varnish to do this if you aren’t careful.
I know this part is in the kit, but I’m not sure about it. The instructions say to put it pretty much at the waterline. While this is fine for the small scale swimmer it will prevent the boat getting up on the plane as the moment we have sufficient speed, the lifting of the front of the hull will cause the platform to dig into the water and act as a brake.
If this is a problem I can see me making some alterations. No chance of that until I can sail on some fish free (there is a problem with carp in our lake, they are big enough to sink a boat like this. Negotiations with the landlord are ongoing but if I can lay my hands on a big net or some dynamite…) and get a bit of speed up.
Anyway, there has been a bit of boat progress. My cardboard boat (hereafter known as Idris) now has it’s swimming platform attached. This is a great example of the laser cut woodworkers art. I doubt that it would be possible to cut all those squares out of a sheet of wood any other way. All I see is grief as the wood splits or the holes become irregular in size. Perhaps it’s my lack of skill but I know I couldn’t do this any other way. If there grid isn’t perfect though, it will stand out a mile.
The wood was sprayed with Plasticote varnish and then lightly sanded. Using waterproof (I hope) PVA I stuck it to the back of the model complete with it’s little supporting pieces. The whole lot was then brush painted with satin varnish. Great care had to be taken to avoid filling any of the holes – there is enough surface tension in the varnish to do this if you aren’t careful.
I know this part is in the kit, but I’m not sure about it. The instructions say to put it pretty much at the waterline. While this is fine for the small scale swimmer it will prevent the boat getting up on the plane as the moment we have sufficient speed, the lifting of the front of the hull will cause the platform to dig into the water and act as a brake.
If this is a problem I can see me making some alterations. No chance of that until I can sail on some fish free (there is a problem with carp in our lake, they are big enough to sink a boat like this. Negotiations with the landlord are ongoing but if I can lay my hands on a big net or some dynamite…) and get a bit of speed up.
Friday, February 23, 2007
Bad exhibitors
Towards the end of every model railway show you will notice the exhibitors being bad. Breaking the rules. Doing terrible acts.
They will be surreptitiously packing up.
It doesn’t seem to matter what time the exhibition finishes, you always seem to feel the need to tidy things away a little early. In our case spare stock will go back in the stock-box instead of littering the fiddle yard. Trains will go in and never come out or at least the wagons won’t.
Some people actually start dismantling bits of layout but I have to say this is going a bit far. If you need to remove the fascia to get home at a reasonable time then you’ve travelled too far or built a model that takes too long to dismantle.
All of this was very evident at Harrogate last weekend. The organisers had written very clearly that there was to be no packing up before the 5pm finish. I expect that this is partly a health and safety thing since you don’t want members of the public wandering around while bits of wood are flying. Mostly though I think that because they are used to running caravan shows and therefore not comfortable with people who have to be paid to attend, so they wanted to extract full value for money out of us.
Perhaps I can offer a few pointers:
1) We haven’t been paid, we got expenses, or to be precise petrol money. Expenses, when you are at work, include an amount to cover the other costs of running a vehicle. We had to prove receipts for everything, hence we only covered the fuel. No one makes a profit.
2) We aren’t that bothered whether you spot us doing this. Future invites will be based on the layouts appearing in the magazine, not on the number of wagons visible at 5pm.
3) If you are going to send some round to check, don’t make them wear a sweatshirt saying “Exhibition Organiser” on the back.
Now you might think that this is all very unfair to the public. They’ve paid to come to a show and we haven stopped playing early. I’m afraid this is true but most exhibitors are quite professional about it. If there is a real crowd than trains run. If all you see on the other side of the barrier are a couple of other exhibitors wandering around then or some bored punters eaking out their tickets by staying in the hall but only giving models a cursory glance, it’s only natural that the enthusiasm wains after 2 or more days of performing.
A useful hint to any prospective visitor – coming in to a show an hour before the end is not the best way to see everything. It sounds obvious but most shows have them. People busy running around attempting to view all the models and shop at all the trade stands.
Why ?
They will be surreptitiously packing up.
It doesn’t seem to matter what time the exhibition finishes, you always seem to feel the need to tidy things away a little early. In our case spare stock will go back in the stock-box instead of littering the fiddle yard. Trains will go in and never come out or at least the wagons won’t.
Some people actually start dismantling bits of layout but I have to say this is going a bit far. If you need to remove the fascia to get home at a reasonable time then you’ve travelled too far or built a model that takes too long to dismantle.
All of this was very evident at Harrogate last weekend. The organisers had written very clearly that there was to be no packing up before the 5pm finish. I expect that this is partly a health and safety thing since you don’t want members of the public wandering around while bits of wood are flying. Mostly though I think that because they are used to running caravan shows and therefore not comfortable with people who have to be paid to attend, so they wanted to extract full value for money out of us.
Perhaps I can offer a few pointers:
1) We haven’t been paid, we got expenses, or to be precise petrol money. Expenses, when you are at work, include an amount to cover the other costs of running a vehicle. We had to prove receipts for everything, hence we only covered the fuel. No one makes a profit.
2) We aren’t that bothered whether you spot us doing this. Future invites will be based on the layouts appearing in the magazine, not on the number of wagons visible at 5pm.
3) If you are going to send some round to check, don’t make them wear a sweatshirt saying “Exhibition Organiser” on the back.
Now you might think that this is all very unfair to the public. They’ve paid to come to a show and we haven stopped playing early. I’m afraid this is true but most exhibitors are quite professional about it. If there is a real crowd than trains run. If all you see on the other side of the barrier are a couple of other exhibitors wandering around then or some bored punters eaking out their tickets by staying in the hall but only giving models a cursory glance, it’s only natural that the enthusiasm wains after 2 or more days of performing.
A useful hint to any prospective visitor – coming in to a show an hour before the end is not the best way to see everything. It sounds obvious but most shows have them. People busy running around attempting to view all the models and shop at all the trade stands.
Why ?
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Repairs
Once upon a time a fellow exhibitor regaled me with tales of his post show activities. He claimed it took six weeks of work to get his locos back into shape after a show.
I always wondered what he was doing with them over the weekend. My rolling stock goes back in the box after an event and the only reason it normally comes out is for the pre-show wheel clean and perhaps a light oiling. Perhaps he’s hitting them with hammers of something…
I have had to do a little maintenance after Harrogate though. For travelling there is a board that screws to the top of the backscene and stops stuff falling into the model and destroying the overhead wire. While we packed up I managed to cross thread one of the bolts and thanks to the power of the electric screwdriver, rotate the captive nut in the board.
So back at home I had to make the nut captive again. Since the hole was rather battered I soldered the nut to a bit of brass. Some Araldite holds the whole assembly in place – hopefully for a long while.
I always wondered what he was doing with them over the weekend. My rolling stock goes back in the box after an event and the only reason it normally comes out is for the pre-show wheel clean and perhaps a light oiling. Perhaps he’s hitting them with hammers of something…
I have had to do a little maintenance after Harrogate though. For travelling there is a board that screws to the top of the backscene and stops stuff falling into the model and destroying the overhead wire. While we packed up I managed to cross thread one of the bolts and thanks to the power of the electric screwdriver, rotate the captive nut in the board.
So back at home I had to make the nut captive again. Since the hole was rather battered I soldered the nut to a bit of brass. Some Araldite holds the whole assembly in place – hopefully for a long while.
Tuesday, February 20, 2007
Gremlins
This was the only problem we experienced with the layout over the Harrogate weekend. One dry joint.
It wasn’t even a dry joint at the start of the day, the problem only appeared after a couple of hours. I blame the arctic conditions in the hall. They cause the overhead wire to tighten up so the trolley poles came off occasionally. They also made the rails shrink and broke the soldered joint on the far side of this pair of rails.
I won’t hear a word about the dodgy workmanship, or the unusual alignment of the track (who said “dogleg” ?). For some reason I’ve never quite got around to tidying this up. I can’t even work out how it managed to end up in this shape in the first place…
Some people say dry joints and electrical problems are to be expected when you take a layout to a show. I’d disagree. It should be possible to build the problems out as you put the model together. This was taught to me by people with much more complicated wiring than I’ve ever used and to their credit, they never had any real problems.
It wasn’t even a dry joint at the start of the day, the problem only appeared after a couple of hours. I blame the arctic conditions in the hall. They cause the overhead wire to tighten up so the trolley poles came off occasionally. They also made the rails shrink and broke the soldered joint on the far side of this pair of rails.
I won’t hear a word about the dodgy workmanship, or the unusual alignment of the track (who said “dogleg” ?). For some reason I’ve never quite got around to tidying this up. I can’t even work out how it managed to end up in this shape in the first place…
Some people say dry joints and electrical problems are to be expected when you take a layout to a show. I’d disagree. It should be possible to build the problems out as you put the model together. This was taught to me by people with much more complicated wiring than I’ve ever used and to their credit, they never had any real problems.
Monday, February 19, 2007
This is what we do
What a happy scene. Contented punters watching the layout. I think this family were taking part in our “spotting game” where we challenge visitors to find various animals on the model. I expect they had got as far as trying to find the robin – always the toughest one as it’s only a couple of millimetres long.
The picture pretty much sums up the event. Lots of people asking questions chatting to us. Far better than those shows populated entirely by enthusiasts. This species will happy talk to their friends and tell each other how you did something. It never occurs to them to speak to the idiot with the controller. What a shock it is for them to realise that we can hear what they say and aren’t afraid to correct them when they get it wrong !
I’ve never understood this. The attitude probably stems from a fear of being seen not to know something – surely the solutions is to ask the guy who has done it and learn from him ? No. Of course it isn’t. Far better to wonder and the scurry home to try and find the answer in a book or magazine. Better still, lets not actually do anything just in case it doesn’t go perfectly.
Here is a newsflash – what you see at any show is the culmination of months or years of effort. No one makes the things you see the first time they try. The difference between most exhibitors and the average modeller is that they try, try, try again. Then they only show the good stuff.
Much on show at events is beyond me but this isn’t a problem. If I look at Ian Rathbone’s painted models I know I can’t achieve a finish like he does. But them I’m not a professional and haven’t painted nearly as many models as he has. It doesn’t mean I don’t get to ask what causes “orange peel” paint finishes (The paint being too thick and drying before spreading apparently. Put more thinners in it.) so I can try and improve.
Likewise, every layout is a series of models. You build one and add it to the completed whole until the whole scene is finished. I know that the first time a visitor sees it they are awed by the detail – that’s the point – it didn’t all arrive at once though.
Every journey starts with a single step. Every model railway starts with a single model, be it a bit of track, locomotive, wagon, building or even a robin.
The picture pretty much sums up the event. Lots of people asking questions chatting to us. Far better than those shows populated entirely by enthusiasts. This species will happy talk to their friends and tell each other how you did something. It never occurs to them to speak to the idiot with the controller. What a shock it is for them to realise that we can hear what they say and aren’t afraid to correct them when they get it wrong !
I’ve never understood this. The attitude probably stems from a fear of being seen not to know something – surely the solutions is to ask the guy who has done it and learn from him ? No. Of course it isn’t. Far better to wonder and the scurry home to try and find the answer in a book or magazine. Better still, lets not actually do anything just in case it doesn’t go perfectly.
Here is a newsflash – what you see at any show is the culmination of months or years of effort. No one makes the things you see the first time they try. The difference between most exhibitors and the average modeller is that they try, try, try again. Then they only show the good stuff.
Much on show at events is beyond me but this isn’t a problem. If I look at Ian Rathbone’s painted models I know I can’t achieve a finish like he does. But them I’m not a professional and haven’t painted nearly as many models as he has. It doesn’t mean I don’t get to ask what causes “orange peel” paint finishes (The paint being too thick and drying before spreading apparently. Put more thinners in it.) so I can try and improve.
Likewise, every layout is a series of models. You build one and add it to the completed whole until the whole scene is finished. I know that the first time a visitor sees it they are awed by the detail – that’s the point – it didn’t all arrive at once though.
Every journey starts with a single step. Every model railway starts with a single model, be it a bit of track, locomotive, wagon, building or even a robin.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Tired
We've just got back from the Harrogate show and unloaded the car. I am now too tired to do much in the way of a post, however in case you are interested, here's how the weekend worked out-
Friday: 5.5 hour drive up a blocked M1 to the venue. Either the road was non-moving thanks to roadworks at the junction with the M18, or covered in rain and spray so I couldn't see where I was going. It's difficult to decide which was worse to be honest. We got to the hall OK and set up the layout fairly quickly. The floor plan had evolved enough so that we weren't directly behind a pillar. After a nice meal of pie and chips (I had 3 bean chili after a bad encounter with a steak & ale pie at a show last year) off we head to the hotel. This meant following the instructions printed off the interweb by the nice show organisers, or it would had they not missed out two lines ! In the end some random driving around Harrogate resulted in our arrival at the very nice hotel. A quick freshen up later and after a stroll we found the only pub in Yorkshire that doesn't do proper beer..
Saturday: Excellent breakfast. Busy show. Freezing cold hall. Very friendly and chatty crowd. Layout works well with only one dry joint. Picked up a few bargains. 3-course meal in the evening (this is what your subs pays for BRM subscribers. Thanks) and then a bit more beer and sleep.
Sunday: Bit of a panic as I thought I'd lost my wallet. Canceled my card and then found it again. Nice breakfast. Managed to investigate some ancient history as all the yoghurt's were several days out of date... Cold venue again and as it was a Sunday less in the way of crowds. Still friendly though. Packed up in 20 minutes and then drove for 2.75 hours back home. Unloaded. Checked e-mail and deleted loads. Posted to blog.
I'll do more tomorrow and maybe manage some pictures.
Friday: 5.5 hour drive up a blocked M1 to the venue. Either the road was non-moving thanks to roadworks at the junction with the M18, or covered in rain and spray so I couldn't see where I was going. It's difficult to decide which was worse to be honest. We got to the hall OK and set up the layout fairly quickly. The floor plan had evolved enough so that we weren't directly behind a pillar. After a nice meal of pie and chips (I had 3 bean chili after a bad encounter with a steak & ale pie at a show last year) off we head to the hotel. This meant following the instructions printed off the interweb by the nice show organisers, or it would had they not missed out two lines ! In the end some random driving around Harrogate resulted in our arrival at the very nice hotel. A quick freshen up later and after a stroll we found the only pub in Yorkshire that doesn't do proper beer..
Saturday: Excellent breakfast. Busy show. Freezing cold hall. Very friendly and chatty crowd. Layout works well with only one dry joint. Picked up a few bargains. 3-course meal in the evening (this is what your subs pays for BRM subscribers. Thanks) and then a bit more beer and sleep.
Sunday: Bit of a panic as I thought I'd lost my wallet. Canceled my card and then found it again. Nice breakfast. Managed to investigate some ancient history as all the yoghurt's were several days out of date... Cold venue again and as it was a Sunday less in the way of crowds. Still friendly though. Packed up in 20 minutes and then drove for 2.75 hours back home. Unloaded. Checked e-mail and deleted loads. Posted to blog.
I'll do more tomorrow and maybe manage some pictures.
Thursday, February 15, 2007
Green modelling
“Why are you showing us pictures of your rubbish ?”, I hear you enquire.
Simple. There wasn’t enough glazing in the kit for the cardboard boat. Now I could have obtained some “proper” clear plastic from a model shop. Or I could do what I did this time and pinch some from a bit of packaging in the bin.
It works just as well and makes me feel all environmentally sound as I’ve stopped just a bit of plastic ending up in land-fill.
Now I’m at the top of the slippery slope that leads to a house full of useful packaging that is kept for the day when it can be used for some other task. I must resist, I really must…
Simple. There wasn’t enough glazing in the kit for the cardboard boat. Now I could have obtained some “proper” clear plastic from a model shop. Or I could do what I did this time and pinch some from a bit of packaging in the bin.
It works just as well and makes me feel all environmentally sound as I’ve stopped just a bit of plastic ending up in land-fill.
Now I’m at the top of the slippery slope that leads to a house full of useful packaging that is kept for the day when it can be used for some other task. I must resist, I really must…
Fading
I spoke too soon last night. Once I peeled the old pictures off the information board I realised how long they had been there.
Long enough for the little sunlight that hits the board to fade it.
Behind each picture there is nut-brown wood. In between the brown has faded a little toward grey. The new pictures are smaller than the old ones so I need to re-varnish the wood before putting them on. This means all the other photos have to come off and some of those will need to be replaced.
Nothing is ever simple is it ? I bet the wood wouldn’t have faded if I done this in plenty of time instead of a couple of days before a show.
Long enough for the little sunlight that hits the board to fade it.
Behind each picture there is nut-brown wood. In between the brown has faded a little toward grey. The new pictures are smaller than the old ones so I need to re-varnish the wood before putting them on. This means all the other photos have to come off and some of those will need to be replaced.
Nothing is ever simple is it ? I bet the wood wouldn’t have faded if I done this in plenty of time instead of a couple of days before a show.
Wednesday, February 14, 2007
New old photos
Along the front of the layout, I have a display board. It contains photographs, maps, adverts and a brief description of the model. The visitor gets to know that I haven’t made it all up – there was really a railway running to the Hellingly Hospital ‘cos they can see the pictures and everything.
The documentation also gives the punters something to read which makes up for the lack of 12 coach express trains hurtling through the scenic section. I like to think this entertains them a bit although I’m probably deluding myself. In reality they are just looking so they feel that full value for money has been squeezed out of the show.
Anyway, this paperwork has been on the model largely unchanged for several years. I know very few people will notice but some might, especially if they have seen me before.
I also have several new photos that haven’t been seen before so I must take the opportunity to do something about them. The current crops aren’t that great quality either as I did them on a laser printer years ago so some inkjet versions on proper photo paper will improve the display.
Funny job this. When you start building toy trains (sorry, finescale model railways) you think about track and trains and all the conventional stuff. Doing the research perhaps enters your head but actually displaying this as well as the model is still unusual. Putting the model in context isn’t a bad idea. It certainly helps defend yourself against the charge of being a grown man just playing with trains. Good grief I’m nearly David Starkey now !
The documentation also gives the punters something to read which makes up for the lack of 12 coach express trains hurtling through the scenic section. I like to think this entertains them a bit although I’m probably deluding myself. In reality they are just looking so they feel that full value for money has been squeezed out of the show.
Anyway, this paperwork has been on the model largely unchanged for several years. I know very few people will notice but some might, especially if they have seen me before.
I also have several new photos that haven’t been seen before so I must take the opportunity to do something about them. The current crops aren’t that great quality either as I did them on a laser printer years ago so some inkjet versions on proper photo paper will improve the display.
Funny job this. When you start building toy trains (sorry, finescale model railways) you think about track and trains and all the conventional stuff. Doing the research perhaps enters your head but actually displaying this as well as the model is still unusual. Putting the model in context isn’t a bad idea. It certainly helps defend yourself against the charge of being a grown man just playing with trains. Good grief I’m nearly David Starkey now !
Tuesday, February 13, 2007
Bath Time
This photo followed a nervous moment. While I doubt that any model boater is entirely at ease as their creation gets wet of the first time, most haven’t made all the nautical bits out of cardboard. Any hints of a crack in the waterproofing paint and varnish and I could enjoy watching the model soak up the contents of the bath.
Fortunately this didn’t happen. The model sat nicely on the water with the waterline at about the right place. One of the best launches so far in my model boat career.
I then tried the radio gear. It worked as well. In fact it worked so well that I can 3-point turn it in the tub. OK, it’s not a big boat but it is very manoeuvrable. Even reverse isn’t bad. If I’d charged the battery properly I might have had quite a good sail.
There may be problems ahead as this is a very light model and I wonder how it will behave on a lake with slight cross winds. That will have to wait though as it’s too dark in the evenings to check and I’m away at the weekend. Anyway, the windows in the superstructure haven’t been glazed yet and I’m not going anywhere near our fish-infested sailing area with holes in the top.
One thing I will do is very carefully dry this hull out every time. I know I sprayed a lot of varnish on and did everything I could to keep the water out but it still worries me.
Fortunately this didn’t happen. The model sat nicely on the water with the waterline at about the right place. One of the best launches so far in my model boat career.
I then tried the radio gear. It worked as well. In fact it worked so well that I can 3-point turn it in the tub. OK, it’s not a big boat but it is very manoeuvrable. Even reverse isn’t bad. If I’d charged the battery properly I might have had quite a good sail.
There may be problems ahead as this is a very light model and I wonder how it will behave on a lake with slight cross winds. That will have to wait though as it’s too dark in the evenings to check and I’m away at the weekend. Anyway, the windows in the superstructure haven’t been glazed yet and I’m not going anywhere near our fish-infested sailing area with holes in the top.
One thing I will do is very carefully dry this hull out every time. I know I sprayed a lot of varnish on and did everything I could to keep the water out but it still worries me.
Monday, February 12, 2007
Skaledale Baskets
I don’t really approve of ready-made items for layouts. It seems to take all the fun out of modelling. Hornby’s excellent Skaledale range is a case in point. Why make your own buildings when you can buy them ready made for a reasonable price ?
Some things are tough to make though. Wicker baskets. How the hell do you do these in 4mm scale ?
For four quid I bought a pack and they are now glued (with PVA) to the layout. Of course I didn’t like the colour so they were treated with a wash of track colour and a dry brushing with pale grey. Otherwise they are excellent and just the think for a model set in 1900.
Some things are tough to make though. Wicker baskets. How the hell do you do these in 4mm scale ?
For four quid I bought a pack and they are now glued (with PVA) to the layout. Of course I didn’t like the colour so they were treated with a wash of track colour and a dry brushing with pale grey. Otherwise they are excellent and just the think for a model set in 1900.
Sunday, February 11, 2007
Show preperation
This time next week, I should be driving back from the BRM Show in Harrogate. With a bit of luck the weekend will have gone well and we’ll be considering stopping at a Little Chef en route for traditional post show meal.
This means that today, the Hellingly Hospital Railway layout has had to be erected for testing. It’s a pretty simple model without much to go wrong but I still like to check everything out anyway. If I’m going to have to fix anything my preferred venue is at home a week ahead of the show rather than after a three hour drive and sat in the middle of an exhibition hall.
Everything ran OK. I tried one of the electric engines and the latest steamer. Both covered every inch of the track without problems. No dry joints are present at the moment. The points work as well. Best of all, setting the stand up now means I can make sure I take everything I need and don’t remember a vital part 300 miles from it !
This might all be a bit of a waste of time however. The picture shows the plan of the show I’ve been supplied with. It looks suspiciously like we are behind a pillar. Now the model only has a 3 ½ foot long scenic section so if the pillar is a couple of feet wide then visitors aren’t going to see very much.
Let’s just hope that the plan isn’t that accurate.
This means that today, the Hellingly Hospital Railway layout has had to be erected for testing. It’s a pretty simple model without much to go wrong but I still like to check everything out anyway. If I’m going to have to fix anything my preferred venue is at home a week ahead of the show rather than after a three hour drive and sat in the middle of an exhibition hall.
Everything ran OK. I tried one of the electric engines and the latest steamer. Both covered every inch of the track without problems. No dry joints are present at the moment. The points work as well. Best of all, setting the stand up now means I can make sure I take everything I need and don’t remember a vital part 300 miles from it !
This might all be a bit of a waste of time however. The picture shows the plan of the show I’ve been supplied with. It looks suspiciously like we are behind a pillar. Now the model only has a 3 ½ foot long scenic section so if the pillar is a couple of feet wide then visitors aren’t going to see very much.
Let’s just hope that the plan isn’t that accurate.
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Attention to detail
A few weeks ago my father and I were flattered to be invited by Warley Model Railway Club, to judge the modelling competitions at it’s modelling symposium. This is a large event that takes place at the clubs premises every year. The layouts are running and demonstrators show and explain different aspects of the hobby.
I’ve never been to one of these before so was looking forward to it when we took the train to Sandwell & Dudley station and then trekked across the frozen (OK, slushy) wastes of northern Birmingham. On arriving at the venue I was surprised by a couple of things. The first was the size of the place.
The send was that the symposium takes place tomorrow.
When the invite arrived I had looked at the date and decided it was on Saturday after what was obviously not enough time with the calendar. This Saturday to be precise, or not.
The trouble is that the only way we could get to the venue from my home on Sunday is by car – the first train doesn’t even get us to the centre of Brum until lunchtime. And as regular readers of this blog will know, my car is not working very well at the moment thanks to a lack of engine and a bit of missing bodywork.
Looking on the bright side, we did have a nice day out and the Warley members who were setting up did make us feel very welcome.
Thanks for this lads, and sorry about the judging.
I’ve never been to one of these before so was looking forward to it when we took the train to Sandwell & Dudley station and then trekked across the frozen (OK, slushy) wastes of northern Birmingham. On arriving at the venue I was surprised by a couple of things. The first was the size of the place.
The send was that the symposium takes place tomorrow.
When the invite arrived I had looked at the date and decided it was on Saturday after what was obviously not enough time with the calendar. This Saturday to be precise, or not.
The trouble is that the only way we could get to the venue from my home on Sunday is by car – the first train doesn’t even get us to the centre of Brum until lunchtime. And as regular readers of this blog will know, my car is not working very well at the moment thanks to a lack of engine and a bit of missing bodywork.
Looking on the bright side, we did have a nice day out and the Warley members who were setting up did make us feel very welcome.
Thanks for this lads, and sorry about the judging.
Friday, February 09, 2007
Getting some go
After all the messing around with paint, filler and varnish I can get on with fitting the hardware to make it go.
The instructions make it seem pretty simple. Use a dismantled servo to turn the propeller and a normal servo for left and right. The drive shaft comes pre-assembled. It’s a brass rod stuck on a bolt. Neat and effective although not something that the scale modeller would appreciate. I wondered about it myself but decided to go ahead as the homespun look fitted the boat I was building.
To couple the motor to the shaft a rubber tube is employed. This has worked well in other boats of this size so I’m not going to buy a proper device for this, not least because it would cost about the same as I paid for the kit !
A blob of Blu-tack held the shaft in place and I squeezed glue around the motor, which was in sort of the right place. When this had dried I filled the hole the shaft runs though with “Liquid Nails” glue to fix and waterproof.
The exciting bit of the build approaches- once the rudder is in I can try it on the water.
The instructions make it seem pretty simple. Use a dismantled servo to turn the propeller and a normal servo for left and right. The drive shaft comes pre-assembled. It’s a brass rod stuck on a bolt. Neat and effective although not something that the scale modeller would appreciate. I wondered about it myself but decided to go ahead as the homespun look fitted the boat I was building.
To couple the motor to the shaft a rubber tube is employed. This has worked well in other boats of this size so I’m not going to buy a proper device for this, not least because it would cost about the same as I paid for the kit !
A blob of Blu-tack held the shaft in place and I squeezed glue around the motor, which was in sort of the right place. When this had dried I filled the hole the shaft runs though with “Liquid Nails” glue to fix and waterproof.
The exciting bit of the build approaches- once the rudder is in I can try it on the water.
Thursday, February 08, 2007
Super Structure
Just to show that my lack of posting doesn’t mean a lack of progress, here’s a photo of the cardboard boat’s superstructure.
It went together nicely enough with outdoor quality PVA. It’s nice to do some “organic” modelling with no solvents. Of course I spoilt this by painting the while bits in Humbrol and then spraying the lot with polyurethane varnish.
The only problem so far is that I didn’t spot the printed gauges in the bits bag. While they would be nice, I’m sure I can paint something nearly as good in the holes in the instrument panel. I don’t feel stupid about that at all. Honest.
It went together nicely enough with outdoor quality PVA. It’s nice to do some “organic” modelling with no solvents. Of course I spoilt this by painting the while bits in Humbrol and then spraying the lot with polyurethane varnish.
The only problem so far is that I didn’t spot the printed gauges in the bits bag. While they would be nice, I’m sure I can paint something nearly as good in the holes in the instrument panel. I don’t feel stupid about that at all. Honest.
Tuesday, February 06, 2007
What do you call a cardboard boat ?
Naming the cardboard boat has caused me to think a bit. Normally I use the name of a pet unless something more suitable presents itself. Since we’ve had lots of pets there is plenty of choice. Even nicknames come in handy – “Pigeon Pie” being the one given by my sister to our dog Ben and now to my Yacht Tug.
This time I have strayed a bit by calling the boat “Idris”. This isn’t strictly speaking the name of a pet or at least not a real one. Many years ago we had a new boiler (I think) which arrived in a big cardboard box. At the time I loved nothing better to play with than a cardboard box, some pens and sellotape. The box became a dragon named after the beast in “Ivor the Engine”. Idris lived in my bedroom for quite a while as I recall (it was along time ago !) and at the corrugated paper found in chocolate boxes. He was very well behaved and good playmate as a small boy could sit inside and hide from his sister.
As my only cardboard pet, Idris is the obvious name for a cardboard boat. I think it’s what the Americans call a “no brainer”.
Naming will be carried out using waterslide transfers printed out on the computer. The liven things up I acquired an image from a dead web site of a cartoon dragon. The whole thing was put together with a DTP package (Pageplus) which allows me to set the sizes and pick from a wide selection of fonts for the text. I made some spares just in case things went wrong – there is no better way of ensuring everything works first time !
The transfers are applied to the model and then given many coats of varnish to stop them sliding off the first time we go for a sail.
This time I have strayed a bit by calling the boat “Idris”. This isn’t strictly speaking the name of a pet or at least not a real one. Many years ago we had a new boiler (I think) which arrived in a big cardboard box. At the time I loved nothing better to play with than a cardboard box, some pens and sellotape. The box became a dragon named after the beast in “Ivor the Engine”. Idris lived in my bedroom for quite a while as I recall (it was along time ago !) and at the corrugated paper found in chocolate boxes. He was very well behaved and good playmate as a small boy could sit inside and hide from his sister.
As my only cardboard pet, Idris is the obvious name for a cardboard boat. I think it’s what the Americans call a “no brainer”.
Naming will be carried out using waterslide transfers printed out on the computer. The liven things up I acquired an image from a dead web site of a cartoon dragon. The whole thing was put together with a DTP package (Pageplus) which allows me to set the sizes and pick from a wide selection of fonts for the text. I made some spares just in case things went wrong – there is no better way of ensuring everything works first time !
The transfers are applied to the model and then given many coats of varnish to stop them sliding off the first time we go for a sail.
Sunday, February 04, 2007
Gloucester Docks
Envy is a terrible thing but who can blame me when I find a scene like this ?
I took a trip to Gloucester yesterday and wandered around the historic dockyard. It’s a fantastic place with easily modelable warehouses and interesting features at every turn. OK, so things have changed a lot since the docks were a working port - all the grime has long been sanitised away, but you can still get a feel for the place as it was.
For the modeller, the city is well worth a visit. As I didn’t have time to “do” the museum I’ll certainly back again later in the year. A couple of excellent model shops and a superb second hand bookshop in town are just added attractions.
Anyway, while looking for some food I discovered the Gloucester Model boat club, or at least some of their members who were sailing. They must be the luckiest club in the country – sheltered flat water and lots of it.
These guys were sailing in an area off the main basin although at least one intrepid modeller sailed his boat onto the main expanse of water. It’s pretty quiet so it wasn’t at any risk. Even if it wasn’t I don’t thing he was likely to damage any other boat he’d hit out there. In a fight between a steel barge and a plastic model boat I know who my money is on !
With handy food and toilets the only downside to the “pond” is that most of the banks are ten feet tall and made of concrete. Recovering a dead boat would be a real challenge. Presumably you always sail in packs so you can shove each other’s boats back to the landing area.
You even get an audience of interested visitors. Mind you, sometimes you just want to sail in private when first launching that new model so perhaps it isn’t perfect after all.
I took a trip to Gloucester yesterday and wandered around the historic dockyard. It’s a fantastic place with easily modelable warehouses and interesting features at every turn. OK, so things have changed a lot since the docks were a working port - all the grime has long been sanitised away, but you can still get a feel for the place as it was.
For the modeller, the city is well worth a visit. As I didn’t have time to “do” the museum I’ll certainly back again later in the year. A couple of excellent model shops and a superb second hand bookshop in town are just added attractions.
Anyway, while looking for some food I discovered the Gloucester Model boat club, or at least some of their members who were sailing. They must be the luckiest club in the country – sheltered flat water and lots of it.
These guys were sailing in an area off the main basin although at least one intrepid modeller sailed his boat onto the main expanse of water. It’s pretty quiet so it wasn’t at any risk. Even if it wasn’t I don’t thing he was likely to damage any other boat he’d hit out there. In a fight between a steel barge and a plastic model boat I know who my money is on !
With handy food and toilets the only downside to the “pond” is that most of the banks are ten feet tall and made of concrete. Recovering a dead boat would be a real challenge. Presumably you always sail in packs so you can shove each other’s boats back to the landing area.
You even get an audience of interested visitors. Mind you, sometimes you just want to sail in private when first launching that new model so perhaps it isn’t perfect after all.
Friday, February 02, 2007
Turning over
At the moment I’ve varnishing the deck of the cardboard boat. This isn’t the most interesting subject in the world for a blog post though so I decided to dip into my special reserve supply of photos and post a useful tip.
When painting a locomotive chassis, you must remember to rotate the wheels occasionally to get the rods clear of the brakes and to avoid a clean “shadow” where they cover the spokes. Ideally you would put some power through the mechanism to do this but with paint on the treads this isn’t always convenient. It can also be awkward to turn the wheels the quarter turn needed – they will tend to rotate rather more if everything is working !
My trick is to use a pin vice on the rear shaft, or leftover rear shaft, of the motor. Most locos allow you to leave quite a bit sticking out of the back. This ought to be more than enough to get the vice on.
A handy side effect is that rotating the motor in the way shows up any tight spots in the chassis. Not that there should be any at this point of course…
When painting a locomotive chassis, you must remember to rotate the wheels occasionally to get the rods clear of the brakes and to avoid a clean “shadow” where they cover the spokes. Ideally you would put some power through the mechanism to do this but with paint on the treads this isn’t always convenient. It can also be awkward to turn the wheels the quarter turn needed – they will tend to rotate rather more if everything is working !
My trick is to use a pin vice on the rear shaft, or leftover rear shaft, of the motor. Most locos allow you to leave quite a bit sticking out of the back. This ought to be more than enough to get the vice on.
A handy side effect is that rotating the motor in the way shows up any tight spots in the chassis. Not that there should be any at this point of course…
Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Cracking Hull
If you are going to sail a cardboard hulled boat, you better make sure it is waterproof.
The instructions say everything should be painted with urethane. Fine, except that I don't know where you buy it. On the other hand many varnishes are marketed as polyurethane so I assume this will do.
First step was to spray the hull with Plasticote varnish. It went on well and seemed to make the hull slightly glossy which I think ought to keep the water out. Unfortunatly it didn't cover the areas where the surface of the card had been damaged when I peeled off the tape used to hold it together for the first fixing.
Filler is the cure for this and on the garage shelf was some high-build primer. This is a primer with filler in and it's in a spray can, Just the job. I think I bought it for working on my camper because I couldn't get any normal stuff at the time.
Anyway, I spray away. Remembering previous tangles with this, I dried each coat with a hair dryer. It all looked OK except for a couple of areas where the paint went on too thick. These were a bit rough but I decided to let it all harden and sand the problems away.
To my suprise when it had dried some areas were cracked. Sanding took the worst of this away but another think coat and some more drying brought the cracks back. Presumably the filler is too think and shrinks on drying.
I'm going to sand again and if it looks OK shoot another coat of varnish over the hull to finish the job. Before doing this I've attached the deck so the hull has reached its final shape just in case flexing it makes things worse. At least the tape marks have gone...
The instructions say everything should be painted with urethane. Fine, except that I don't know where you buy it. On the other hand many varnishes are marketed as polyurethane so I assume this will do.
First step was to spray the hull with Plasticote varnish. It went on well and seemed to make the hull slightly glossy which I think ought to keep the water out. Unfortunatly it didn't cover the areas where the surface of the card had been damaged when I peeled off the tape used to hold it together for the first fixing.
Filler is the cure for this and on the garage shelf was some high-build primer. This is a primer with filler in and it's in a spray can, Just the job. I think I bought it for working on my camper because I couldn't get any normal stuff at the time.
Anyway, I spray away. Remembering previous tangles with this, I dried each coat with a hair dryer. It all looked OK except for a couple of areas where the paint went on too thick. These were a bit rough but I decided to let it all harden and sand the problems away.
To my suprise when it had dried some areas were cracked. Sanding took the worst of this away but another think coat and some more drying brought the cracks back. Presumably the filler is too think and shrinks on drying.
I'm going to sand again and if it looks OK shoot another coat of varnish over the hull to finish the job. Before doing this I've attached the deck so the hull has reached its final shape just in case flexing it makes things worse. At least the tape marks have gone...
Monday, January 29, 2007
Sanding sealer
Ahhhh, the joys of tradition modelling. Who amongst you whipper snappers with your X-Boxacto knives and your Resistance Soldering Units, has ever used sanding sealer ?
Not many I suspect. Well sit at Grandpa Phil’s knee and let me explain.
Imagine you have some wood. Yes real wood from trees, not some plastic imitation. You would like to paint this wood. Now you might think that all you do is open the tin, stir the liquid and slap it on in the approved manner. What you will end up with is a hairy mess.
Wood has grain and is made up of fibres. So, before paint you need to seal the surface or the liquid colour will make the grain and fibres rise – giving the impression of a model that’s been too close to the cat.
The trick, if it can be described as such, is to paint the wood with sanding sealer. You’ll have to search a bit for this, as most model shops don’t carry it. Model aircraft shops are the best bet, or Squires. Sanding sealer is made from the blood of frogs harvested at midnight or something (I might have made that bit up) but the trick it performs is magic. Balsa wood is converted to a smooth substance that feels like soft, warm plastic. Paint now forms a beautiful smooth surface. The brush you used is probably dead though unless you wash it out in cellulose thinners. A small price to pay I feel.
Of course you could just use plastic in the first place. It would save a lot of mucking around.
Not many I suspect. Well sit at Grandpa Phil’s knee and let me explain.
Imagine you have some wood. Yes real wood from trees, not some plastic imitation. You would like to paint this wood. Now you might think that all you do is open the tin, stir the liquid and slap it on in the approved manner. What you will end up with is a hairy mess.
Wood has grain and is made up of fibres. So, before paint you need to seal the surface or the liquid colour will make the grain and fibres rise – giving the impression of a model that’s been too close to the cat.
The trick, if it can be described as such, is to paint the wood with sanding sealer. You’ll have to search a bit for this, as most model shops don’t carry it. Model aircraft shops are the best bet, or Squires. Sanding sealer is made from the blood of frogs harvested at midnight or something (I might have made that bit up) but the trick it performs is magic. Balsa wood is converted to a smooth substance that feels like soft, warm plastic. Paint now forms a beautiful smooth surface. The brush you used is probably dead though unless you wash it out in cellulose thinners. A small price to pay I feel.
Of course you could just use plastic in the first place. It would save a lot of mucking around.
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Nose job
Sunday is sailing day so “Little Miss Minty” needed her nose job.
In other words I stuck one of the spare winches back on the front of the boat.
The resin casting was cleaned up by gentle application of a big file. Not much work was required, as the casting was pretty good to start with - just a little flash needed attention on the base, the rest was perfect. I then painted it with matt aluminium from the Humbrol range. All the other fittings are painted the same although they have been varnished so look a little different. I’ll notice this and so will you now I’ve told you, but no one else will.
Once dry a dab of superglue and Minty’s nose is restored. If I can avoid the buoys she’ll not need attention again.
In other words I stuck one of the spare winches back on the front of the boat.
The resin casting was cleaned up by gentle application of a big file. Not much work was required, as the casting was pretty good to start with - just a little flash needed attention on the base, the rest was perfect. I then painted it with matt aluminium from the Humbrol range. All the other fittings are painted the same although they have been varnished so look a little different. I’ll notice this and so will you now I’ve told you, but no one else will.
Once dry a dab of superglue and Minty’s nose is restored. If I can avoid the buoys she’ll not need attention again.
Saturday, January 27, 2007
Metric rules
I’ve always been a metric sort of person. Not for everything you understand, if asked how far away something is I’ll estimate in feet or miles but when you want precision only metric will do. This especially important when modelling so I measure everything in millimetres.
So it is great to discover that the cardboard model boat kit has all the measurements in imperial. Wood sizes are described at 1/16 rather than 1.5mm. I’ve had to rely on Google to do all the conversions for me – type in “Convert 1/16 inch to mm” and the search engine does all the work.
It doesn’t help that one of the measurements is wrong – the main cross support is not 6/34 from the stern – it’s about 6.75 inches. Roughly. Sort of. I’m going to work it out by pushing the bit of wood back and forth until the edge of the hull appears to fit the deck.
This is all the fault of the Americans. They simply aren’t clever enough to realise that you need millimetres for precision work and probably explains why everything important ever was invented in Great Britain. We Brits worked this out many years ago which is why we lost the war of independence just get rid of them. Imperial units instead of metric, coffee instead of tea, it explains soooo much…
So it is great to discover that the cardboard model boat kit has all the measurements in imperial. Wood sizes are described at 1/16 rather than 1.5mm. I’ve had to rely on Google to do all the conversions for me – type in “Convert 1/16 inch to mm” and the search engine does all the work.
It doesn’t help that one of the measurements is wrong – the main cross support is not 6/34 from the stern – it’s about 6.75 inches. Roughly. Sort of. I’m going to work it out by pushing the bit of wood back and forth until the edge of the hull appears to fit the deck.
This is all the fault of the Americans. They simply aren’t clever enough to realise that you need millimetres for precision work and probably explains why everything important ever was invented in Great Britain. We Brits worked this out many years ago which is why we lost the war of independence just get rid of them. Imperial units instead of metric, coffee instead of tea, it explains soooo much…
Friday, January 26, 2007
A cardboard boat
Cardboard and water don’t mix. Or if they do you get papier machie. So I was fascinated to see a cardboard boat kit on eBay which intended to be a working model fitted with radio control.
Since I managed to win the auction at a price that was very right, I wondered what I would get.
A few days later in the post a Osbourne Micro Boat kit for a Chris Craft Cruiser arrived. It’s brilliant. Laser cut card and wood along with a few fittings. Excellent instructions. A real quality item.
I couldn’t resist starting it. It’s one of those models you can build while working on something else. Every step involves glueing or varnishing and then leaving the piece to dry. Normally I get impatient and ruin things but not this time I have promised myself. Besides, I need to get a move on with the Armstrong, hopefully I’ll be distracted enough to do a proper job.
So far I have taped the hull together and then run white glue into the inside of the joints. The tape was peeled off as carefully as I could and I’m left with a suprisingly good hull. It’s a testament to the makers art that the parts fitted perfectly and I look forward to carrying on with it.
Since I managed to win the auction at a price that was very right, I wondered what I would get.
A few days later in the post a Osbourne Micro Boat kit for a Chris Craft Cruiser arrived. It’s brilliant. Laser cut card and wood along with a few fittings. Excellent instructions. A real quality item.
I couldn’t resist starting it. It’s one of those models you can build while working on something else. Every step involves glueing or varnishing and then leaving the piece to dry. Normally I get impatient and ruin things but not this time I have promised myself. Besides, I need to get a move on with the Armstrong, hopefully I’ll be distracted enough to do a proper job.
So far I have taped the hull together and then run white glue into the inside of the joints. The tape was peeled off as carefully as I could and I’m left with a suprisingly good hull. It’s a testament to the makers art that the parts fitted perfectly and I look forward to carrying on with it.
Tuesday, January 23, 2007
Amazing Service
Sailing Little Miss Minty a few days ago I managed to break the pulley from her nose. It was a clever manoeuvre involving hitting a buoy forwards and sideways at the same time. The part pulled off and sank.
So I e-mailed George Turner Models and asked for the cost for the replacement part. A few days later in the post I received not one, but two parts free of charge !
What fantastic service. You simply can’t get better than this. I think I know who will be getting more of my money in the near future…
So I e-mailed George Turner Models and asked for the cost for the replacement part. A few days later in the post I received not one, but two parts free of charge !
What fantastic service. You simply can’t get better than this. I think I know who will be getting more of my money in the near future…
Sunday, January 21, 2007
Leamington Show
Yet again I go to a show and see examples of a hobby about to turn over and die. The Leamington Show had only a large increase in attendance with over 2000 coming in over the two days. The traders seemed happy with their takings and I know several large and expensive items went in the back of visitors cars.
The layouts were notable for their excellent quality – or at least I assume they were as I couldn’t get near them during peak periods.
Yes, the hobby is definitely on it’s last legs and I confidently predict were are doomed.
The layouts were notable for their excellent quality – or at least I assume they were as I couldn’t get near them during peak periods.
Yes, the hobby is definitely on it’s last legs and I confidently predict were are doomed.
Saturday, January 20, 2007
In praise of the odd-ball
At our show I find myself chatting to the operator of a 16mm layout.
The larger narrow gauges aren’t often represented at indoor shows. Most people consider that they are suitable for the garden only. I think this photo shows that properly done, you can use the size to make an attractive model.
The layout itself is pretty basic. On a 4ft square board there is a single circuit that forma figure of eight looping over itself. The train trundles around, disappears from view in a tunnel and re-appears at a higher level, spiralling down to start again. A loop and single siding allow a little bit of operation but not much. Basically this is a watch the trains go by model. The builder obviously enjoys making mine locomotives as he has a couple of spares over the bare minimum required.
Scenery is slate, either in cliff of rubble form. There is a hut and a basic bridge but not a lot else. Despite this I liked the model. It’s a good example of something created by a modeller who likes modelling. He likes the process of putting things together and pitching his skill against a dream.
I wonder what other people think of it. Many will be happy to walk away from the show with some new Hornby or Bachmann product that they will place in a cupboard to be used “one day”. Some will go home enthused clutching purchases and planning to “do” the train set. Many won’t see anything in this little model. It’s too remote from what they want to make. The idea of building absolutely everything is alien. Surely they will argue, you have to buy something.
Worse are those who think it is stupid to build a model you want when you could just buy a new “thing”. They will complain that this isn’t what they want to see at an exhibition, why can’t there be a layout made entirely of bought items ? The argument runs, “We must show the beginners what they can do without any skill”. Skill in this instance being considered a mysterious power that only the high priests of the hobby possess.
To this last group I say, “What about me ?”. I posses the magical power of “skill”. Not nearly as much as I would like but some. I want to see models that inspire me. I want to go to a show and see a model and think, “I would like to make that.” With the emphasis on “make” and not “own”.
As a hobby we need odd-ball layouts that take us away from the main line and into interesting byways. It’s like a diet – if all you ate was McBurgers you wouldn’t die but like would be terribly bland. This might not be a hobby marked by heady excitement but at least we deserve some variety.
The larger narrow gauges aren’t often represented at indoor shows. Most people consider that they are suitable for the garden only. I think this photo shows that properly done, you can use the size to make an attractive model.
The layout itself is pretty basic. On a 4ft square board there is a single circuit that forma figure of eight looping over itself. The train trundles around, disappears from view in a tunnel and re-appears at a higher level, spiralling down to start again. A loop and single siding allow a little bit of operation but not much. Basically this is a watch the trains go by model. The builder obviously enjoys making mine locomotives as he has a couple of spares over the bare minimum required.
Scenery is slate, either in cliff of rubble form. There is a hut and a basic bridge but not a lot else. Despite this I liked the model. It’s a good example of something created by a modeller who likes modelling. He likes the process of putting things together and pitching his skill against a dream.
I wonder what other people think of it. Many will be happy to walk away from the show with some new Hornby or Bachmann product that they will place in a cupboard to be used “one day”. Some will go home enthused clutching purchases and planning to “do” the train set. Many won’t see anything in this little model. It’s too remote from what they want to make. The idea of building absolutely everything is alien. Surely they will argue, you have to buy something.
Worse are those who think it is stupid to build a model you want when you could just buy a new “thing”. They will complain that this isn’t what they want to see at an exhibition, why can’t there be a layout made entirely of bought items ? The argument runs, “We must show the beginners what they can do without any skill”. Skill in this instance being considered a mysterious power that only the high priests of the hobby possess.
To this last group I say, “What about me ?”. I posses the magical power of “skill”. Not nearly as much as I would like but some. I want to see models that inspire me. I want to go to a show and see a model and think, “I would like to make that.” With the emphasis on “make” and not “own”.
As a hobby we need odd-ball layouts that take us away from the main line and into interesting byways. It’s like a diet – if all you ate was McBurgers you wouldn’t die but like would be terribly bland. This might not be a hobby marked by heady excitement but at least we deserve some variety.
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