That's the question that I always ask when building a small model locomotive. The P is tiny and yet the gearbox seems massive. Before progressing the chassis too far, I thought I ought find out.
Fitting the footplate ought to be easy but it seems that there has been a bit of design tweaking in the kit. That chassis is about 2mm too long. Not to worry, there are some half etched lines on the frames where it should be shortened.
This done, everything went together. Then I noticed that the drawing showed the front bufferbeam should be opened up to accept the underframe. A new beam is supplied to cover up the hole. I will never get to be a finescale modeller...
Anyway, the very detailed backhead fits nicely into the back of the boiler. Place the unit in position and one end is floating in mid air. Look at the drawing and realise that the cab floor has to go in to provide support. Fit this and all is well.
The extended shaft sticking out the back of the motor has to be shortened. Proper modellers use a cutting disk or needle file. I use a big pair of Zebra wire cutters. OK, so the cut shaft pings off around the room at Mach 2, but otherwise I can't see a problem. Indeed, the disk or file will heat up the motor shaft and right next to the plastic end of the motor too. Any comments on why I should do what I do would be appreciated.
After all this, the motor and gears will fit nicely. Once the firebox sides are in the chassis, I might trim the gearbox a little to hide it but otherwise there is loads of room. I don't know what I was worried about.
1 comment:
I now use a diamond coated triangular file for shortening motor shafts after I managed to melt the plastic casing of a Mashima 1220 with a cutting disc!
I wrap up the motor with masking tape beforehand - to prevent filings getting into the casing - and hold the end to be cut off in a pin vise whilst its being cut to stop it rotating and to act as a heat sink.
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